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Routes in The Warlock

Bird of Prey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ghostbumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Imaginary Voyage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sea of Tranquility T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro
Page Views: 3,959 total · 39/month
Shared By: fubar on Jun 18, 2010
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

In an area full of aesthetic lines, Titanic stands out as one of the most striking. Wide crack leads to a physical roof, and then it's on: crimp tiny and sequential edges up the steep west face of the Warlock, clipping huge iron home-made bolt hangers every ten feet or so. Continuous climbing with two distinct cruxes on the headwall. Finish by joining the second pitch of The Howling to the summit.

Location

Either rap from the notch (one rope), or from the intermediate anchors on the second pitch of The Howling (two ropes).

Protection

For the crack: three inches to .25; draws for the bolts.

Photos

Josh Janes    
 
The version of this route that traverses in to the face via the thin, horizontal crack - thus skipping the first half of the pitch - is called "Women and Children First" and in my opinion is a fair bit easier. Having worked out the face climbing crux via WACF and then redpointing the complete route from below, I can attest that regaining your composure at the cramped rest below the roof after 60' of pumpy 5.11 liebacking - and then executing the crux immediately after an awkward transition onto the headwall - is a challenge!

A world-class line that tests all parts of your game! Sep 5, 2018

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