All Locations > California > Southern-Wester… > Southern Sierra… > Needles > Warlock

Imaginary Voyage

Name: Imaginary Voyage
Rating: 3.1

5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in The Warlock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bird of Prey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ghostbumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Imaginary Voyage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sea of Tranquility T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
	South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA:	E.C. Joe and Dick Leversee, August 1977
Page Views:	18,500 total · 100/month
Shared By:	Michael Schneiter on Feb 22, 2008
Admins:	Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

There's probably a number of ways to break these pitches up and it appeared some possible variations on some of the pitches. Climb a great crack on the first pitch. Where this crack ends there is a bolted protected the face moves above. With a 60 meter rope you can take it all the way to a ledge where you can belay at the base of a left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral and belay at a ledge or continue up another crack before belaying at a ledge left of the crack at the base of a chimney. We thought the next pitch was great. Climb up the steep chimney which you can stay out of by climbing the well-featured face and continue up and right until you come to the large chimney below the summit block of the Warlock. Face climb past some bolts to the summit of the Warlock. If you've been to the Needles you know moderates are in short supply and Imaginary Voyage is a good, moderate route that gets great afternoon sun when it gets hot.

Location

Located on the east or southeast face of the Warlock. Go around the north side of the Witch and past the Howling. Descend the gully between the Warlock and Voodoo Dome. It's been a while, but I remember looking for a crack on the face left o f a large dihedral. There is a bolted face route just right of Imaginary Voyage. There's a descent topo on Clint Cumming's Needles site.