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Routes in The Warlock

Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ghostbumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Imaginary Voyage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sea of Tranquility T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: E.C. Joe and Dick Leversee, August 1977
Page Views: 12,449 total, 105/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Feb 22, 2008
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

There's probably a number of ways to break these pitches up and it appeared some possible variations on some of the pitches. Climb a great crack on the first pitch. Where this crack ends there is a bolted protected the face moves above. With a 60 meter rope you can take it all the way to a ledge where you can belay at the base of a left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral and belay at a ledge or continue up another crack before belaying at a ledge left of the crack at the base of a chimney. We thought the next pitch was great. Climb up the steep chimney which you can stay out of by climbing the well-featured face and continue up and right until you come to the large chimney below the summit block of the Warlock. Face climb past some bolts to the summit of the Warlock. If you've been to the Needles you know moderates are in short supply and Imaginary Voyage is a good, moderate route that gets great afternoon sun when it gets hot.

Location

Located on the east or southeast face of the Warlock. Go around the north side of the Witch and past the Howling. Descend the gully between the Warlock and Voodoo Dome. It's been a while, but I remember looking for a crack on the face left o f a large dihedral. There is a bolted face route just right of Imaginary Voyage. There's a descent topo on Clint Cumming's Needles site.

Protection

Standard rack.
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
  5.9
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
  5.9
This may be a little quibbling, but I think there are a couple of short sections that felt like pretty standard 5.9: the exit moves at the top of the 4th and transitioning from the wide crack to the chimney on the 5th. Also, on the 4th pitch, we climbed straight up from the grassy crack to reach the thin crack/flake that parallels the chimney to the left. Where the crack starts petering out it's easy to step left and down on jugs into the left crack above the chimney portion. You'll have to be careful to rig your pro so the rope isn't running over the edge, but the climbing was fun and exposed. Aug 13, 2013
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.9-
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.9-
Manky fixed rope is now gone. Also, one of the bolts the fixed rope was hanging from broke with less than body weight.

More here: supertopo.com/climbers-foru… Jun 4, 2012
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
The first pitch, after the initial dihedral, is a long and sustained wide crack. Stoutness!

Descent info: From the bolts at the summit, rap (less than 100'- not sure how far) to the big ledge where there are two bolts (20-30 feet right of the final wide crack)and a manky fixed rope. Next, rap approximately 110' - 115' to a two-bolt anchor which is somewhat climber's right from the last anchor at the ledge. You go over a couple of edges/ledges before you can see it. We only had a 60 meter rope, so my friend had to downclimb the last 10 feet, after attaching a cordelette from his harness to the anchor for security.

The final rap to the ground is just under a 100', provided you land climber's left on the sloping ground. Trend left so you don't rap off the end of your 60 meter rope.

Edit: there are probably other ways to descend = this is how we did it. May 19, 2012
Tim McCabe  
 
Add one star if it's one of the climbs you are capable of leading in the Needles. A great moderate less sustained climb.

I spent several years raft guiding in Kernville and made several trips each season to the Needles mostly taking other raft guides so I got to/had to lead every pitch. Got spanked on Igor once, mostly stuck to White Punks, Magic Dragon and this one. Dec 26, 2010
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
We had a topo that recommended doing this in 3 pitches. Kind of a bad idea. Ended up doing it in 5 (recommend doing it in 4 or 5). While you can stretch a rope and do it in 3, the ledgy, blocky, and rambling nature of the upper pitches make it unpleasant due to drag. Use the std p1, then break them up where convenient but count on belaying the last pitch at the base of the 6" crack if you don't want bad drag for the 5.9ish face climbing to the summit.

The "5.9" low angle ramp with a bolt right off the 1st belay, is maybe 5.7. Final wide crack is short, maybe 15'. Beware at the end, the topo shows a 2 bolt face finish, but there are actually two bolted face finishes leading out of the chimney/trough, one with at least three visible bolts starting midway back in the trough (wrong finish) or one with two bolts starting closer to the outside/face (correct finish).

There are two options leading to the base of the final wide crack, a grassy handcrack (fantastic but needs more traffic to stay clean), or a very featured face with no pro. Both are about the same difficulty (5.8ish) and both offer high quality climbing...but the face is clean and interesting with big features...so take the face.

First pitch is really long, and "chimney" pitch turns out to require no chimneying but has really cool moves to make the pitch much easier than it initially looks. Climbing itself is great, but deduct one star for rambling/blocky nature. Jul 14, 2010