Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Clark & Steres (August 1976)
Page Views: 8,891 total · 59/month
Shared By: Scotty Nelson on Jul 24, 2006
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The Spell is the obvious chimney splitting the West face of the Warlock.

Pitch 1: approach pitch over a chockstone to the base of the chimney proper.

Pitch 2: a full 60m pitch up the chimney. You can walk your biggest cam up with you.

Location

To approach the Spell, first climb the first pitch of the Howling (worthwhile warmup in itself). Now, with 2 ropes rappel into the intimidating gully on the west face. Walk about 100 feet over to the start of the route.

Protection

Bring some big gear.

Photos

J Smith  
You can also approach The Spell via the chimney just right of The Howling. It is mostly 4th class with a 5.7 move midway. At the top tunnel through and there is a bolted rap station. A single 70m rope will get you down into the gully. Jun 30, 2010
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
On the monstrous second pitch I placed two #4's at the crux roof, one #5, one #3, and then walked my #6 up with me for a ways (all pieces were BD Camalots). It's definitely doable with a single set of big cams although having two bomber 4's in that roof made me happy. Jul 19, 2010
JaredVagy
Santa Monica, Ca
JaredVagy   Santa Monica, Ca
Beta for folks who are not super skilled in wide cracks (AKA me):

Pitch 1: Very mellow
Pitch 2: I put a number 4 in a good stance in the roof; pulled the crux and then placed one more #4. I brought two 6's, three 5's, three 4's, three 3's, one 2, one 1, and a few C3's and finger sized pieces. It is nice to have two sixes up top if you are not comfortable in offwidth. The alcove belay took the finger sized, C3 and #1 very nicely.
Pitch 3: Climb out of the alcove and pull an easy roof (protects with #5) and aid or free climb a bolt ladder. Make sure to unclip your first draw as it may cause rope drag.

If I were to lead it again I would either bring 1 more #6 for good measure; or suck it up and run it out and stay on the outside of the chimney which is easier than if you were deeper. Jul 26, 2011
Jon W
Bishop, CA
 
Jon W   Bishop, CA
 
Warning: from the notch at the top of the chimney, there is a bolt ladder to the summit. The first bolt is a 1/4" that moves with less than body weight. Until this gets replaced, I would descend the other side and do the finish for Imaginary Voyage.

Great chimney/flare though. May 31, 2015
Josh Janes    
 
None of the comments really mention what gear you need on the small end. The answer is not much. Doing this again I'd bring the following:

1x #6, #5 Camalot
2x #4, #3 Camalots
1x #2 Camalot
1x 0.5 Camalot (for the exit move at the top of the chimney)
A couple medium wires for the belay between pitches

There is a hidden bolted line to gain the north summit around the corner from the obvious one - it's much easier. Sep 23, 2015
Izzy Nawfal
Redondo Beach, CA
  5.10+
Izzy Nawfal   Redondo Beach, CA
  5.10+
I used Josh Janes' gear beta and it was perfect. If you’re worried about bumping or run outs, adding another 5 or 6 will give you peace of mind. Sep 12, 2018