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Routes in West Side

Around Right S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ball Chopper T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bonsai S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cape Point T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cape of Good Hope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chucky Bill T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dehydrated Lemon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dihedral S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Excited Delirium T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Finding Forester S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hotness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hymanizer T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
LA Woman? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lemon Peel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mudslide T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
NoJo S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prow Hugger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slopestyle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tons of Fun T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.11c S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vertical Alluvium T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Manolo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildflower S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,458 total, 13/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on Aug 29, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb compact granite clipping bolts to the roof. Pull through the strenuous roof crux moves and now that you are well above your last bolt reach for your gear. The climbing is easier (5.9 ish) and pretty much adequately protected. Traverse slightly left and follow cracks to fixed anchor at top.

This is a good mix of physical and mental fun.

Location

This route is left of center on the chunk of rock with the large roof about 100 yards upstream from the knotted rope. Look for bolts leading to a weakness in the roof.

Protection

One of everything to #3 Camalot, although one larger cam might be helpful.

Photos

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Justin Skaare
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Justin Skaare   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Doubles in hand sizes recommended (#1, 2). Save a #2 to protect the crack just before the finish. Be careful of loose rock: I pulled a cinderblock-size chunk down on my head @ the roof section. It didn't alter the route, but w/o a helmet, it would have been bad. Speaking of the roof, it had a dynamic move, for me, which I loved. Great adventure climbing up top and sporty down low. May 25, 2014
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
Eds. moved from a duplicate route entry.

This has crux moves through bolts off the ground. The rest of the route is enjoyable climbing on fairly good holds. Bring some hand-sized pieces maybe down to a #0.4 Camalot. Gear placements range from good to marginal. The bolt at roof bulge is tweaked, because it looks like people use it to access the obscure route to the right which doesn't look like it actually has a reasonably protected roof move (project?). So place a hand-sized piece just below roof to back it up. Then be careful because your gear is not always in solid rock for a while after this roof section. May 31, 2013
BGardner
Seattle, WA
BGardner   Seattle, WA
Really fun climbing, but the rock is pretty loose.

The climbing above the roof is mostly easier (5.8-9), but be heads up with your gear. There is a lot of loose blocks and most of the obvious places for gear where behind these blocks. There are a couple of good placements, but you'll want to be comfortable running it out on questionable rock.

Good training for climbing in the San Juans :) Aug 19, 2012
Max schon
  5.11-
Max schon  
  5.11-
This route is called the Hymanizer. Sep 22, 2008