Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,601 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on Aug 29, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Climb compact granite clipping bolts to the roof. Pull through the strenuous roof crux moves and now that you are well above your last bolt reach for your gear. The climbing is easier (5.9 ish) and pretty much adequately protected. Traverse slightly left and follow cracks to fixed anchor at top.

This is a good mix of physical and mental fun.

Location

This route is left of center on the chunk of rock with the large roof about 100 yards upstream from the knotted rope. Look for bolts leading to a weakness in the roof.

Protection

One of everything to #3 Camalot, although one larger cam might be helpful.

Photos

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Max schon
  5.11-
Max schon  
  5.11-
This route is called the Hymanizer. Sep 22, 2008
BGardner
Seattle, WA
BGardner   Seattle, WA
Really fun climbing, but the rock is pretty loose.

The climbing above the roof is mostly easier (5.8-9), but be heads up with your gear. There is a lot of loose blocks and most of the obvious places for gear where behind these blocks. There are a couple of good placements, but you'll want to be comfortable running it out on questionable rock.

Good training for climbing in the San Juans :) Aug 19, 2012
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
Eds. moved from a duplicate route entry.

This has crux moves through bolts off the ground. The rest of the route is enjoyable climbing on fairly good holds. Bring some hand-sized pieces maybe down to a #0.4 Camalot. Gear placements range from good to marginal. The bolt at roof bulge is tweaked, because it looks like people use it to access the obscure route to the right which doesn't look like it actually has a reasonably protected roof move (project?). So place a hand-sized piece just below roof to back it up. Then be careful because your gear is not always in solid rock for a while after this roof section. May 31, 2013
Justin Skaare
CO
  5.11-
Justin Skaare   CO
  5.11-
Doubles in hand sizes recommended (#1, 2). Save a #2 to protect the crack just before the finish. Be careful of loose rock: I pulled a cinderblock-size chunk down on my head @ the roof section. It didn't alter the route, but w/o a helmet, it would have been bad. Speaking of the roof, it had a dynamic move, for me, which I loved. Great adventure climbing up top and sporty down low. May 25, 2014
Matt rappelled this and trundled a bunch of loose blocks. Many of the cracks behind these blocks made up the gear placements for the middle third of the route. He trundled a refrigerator[sized block from the roof which obviously changed that area immensely. Two bolts were added to protect the middle of the route. Definitely still bring gear for between bolt 3 and 4 and for the top. I'd say this route is now .11b? Oct 18, 2018
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
So good to know I'm not the only one who likes "chossy" routes and is willing to "clean them up." Oct 19, 2018