Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: David Deliz, Oct. 2020
Page Views: 545 total · 13/month
Shared By: David Deliz on Oct 25, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Stickclip the first bolt, unless this is comfortable terrain for you, then stem up the dihedral, and traverse right a couple moves. Then climb up through the initial bulge, and gain easier ground for a couple sequences. The main crux comes in moving through the second overhang of the next roof series and onto features above it. After executing the crux, climb up through some technical moves toward a left-facing dihedral that’s to your right and up through that to surmount another roof, which will deposit you onto the final, slabby stretch to the anchors. Above this stance is a massive, left-facing flake that begins from your right and diagonals leftward across the route: snatch this up, and take it to the chains. The difficulty of a couple of the crux moves are somewhat height-dependent and will feel anywhere from middle-11 to 11-plus once you’ve deciphered the beta. Enjoy!

Location Suggest change

It is located further upstream from the main west side routes, past the tyrolean. The best approach is to cross to the east side, hike past the wall that houses Holy Grail and Brady’s, continue a short distance upstream passing a large, fallen tree that bridges the river, and up partially over the following talus mound then look for a rock path through the river to a small, rocky platform on the opposite (west) side just below the route. It’s easier to identify the route before crossing the river: look for a right-facing dihedral on the ground, which is the start of the route, that terminates in a roof. Several small roofs throughout the route characterize it as well. During high water, it may be inaccessible.

Protection Suggest change

1/2 in. stainless bolts to chain anchors with biners.

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