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Routes in West Side

Around Right S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ball Chopper T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bonsai S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cape Point T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cape of Good Hope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chucky Bill T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dehydrated Lemon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dihedral S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Excited Delirium T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Finding Forester S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hotness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hymanizer T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
LA Woman? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lemon Peel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mudslide T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
NoJo S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prow Hugger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slopestyle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tons of Fun T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.11c S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vertical Alluvium T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Manolo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildflower S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: MTM
Page Views: 964 total, 15/month
Shared By: Matt Mielke on Jul 14, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Follow bolts up through the big roof then start pluggin' gear in the shallow, meandering crack on an otherwise clean face (very sustained). Fight to protect the crux.

Location

This route is about a half mile up river from the main climbing area. Walk along the canyon rim then descend down a drainage marked by a cairn. Once you get cliffed out, shimmy left to a two bolt anchor w/ chains.

Protection

Quickdraws, standard climbing rack, off-set stoppers are useful, and a 60m rope.

Photos

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Okay, but let's not call it 120 feet. It's less than 100 feet tall.

Matt Sep 6, 2013
5.12. Aug 29, 2013
So, what would that unamed shallow corner be rated?

MK Aug 29, 2013
In the little alcove, Nojo is the one on the left (the one you are referencing), then there is an unamed dihedral. Ballchopper, then Slopestyle. We cleaned the dihedral on the right and put anchors in, would be a good 5.9/10 warmup, never bolted it though. Aug 28, 2013
Hmmm... I'm not seeing that, but I will give it a try. Hey, so there are a total of 4 routes on that wall where NoJo and Slope style are right? But only 3 are listed. Which is the farthest one on climber's left? Looks like a dead vertical route on yellow rock with bolts spaced closer together. Then it goes through the roof and doesn't have a lot of chalk on it. Thoughts?

MK Aug 28, 2013
Rapping off the anchors, a 60m will not quite reach the ground on the middle routes, the one on the left, Nojo, is slightly shorter. Aug 27, 2013
Can't wait to get on these three routes, but I know for a fact that a 70m rope will do for any route in this area. Nothing is over 90 feet. Thanks for posting this description.

Matt King Aug 26, 2013