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Routes in West Side

Around Right S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ball Chopper T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bonsai S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cape Point T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cape of Good Hope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chucky Bill T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dehydrated Lemon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dihedral S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Excited Delirium T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Finding Forester S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hotness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hymanizer T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
LA Woman? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lemon Peel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mudslide T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
NoJo S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prow Hugger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slopestyle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tons of Fun T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.11c S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vertical Alluvium T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Manolo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildflower S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft Fixed Hardware (8)
FA: Gary N, 4/2013
Page Views: 672 total, 12/month
Shared By: Gary N on May 1, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Located on a prominent prow I like to call "The Flying Dutchman", 'Cape Point' ascends the right side of this feature. Start directly under a high roof and to the right of a small bulge/nose feature. Climb up to a good foot ledge and reach out left to clip the 1st bolt. Work left to the bulge/nose feature, possibly moving downwards a bit. Pull/mantle onto the bulge/nose feature and find a great left-hand jug to clip the 2nd bolt. Move out right to the high roof and work through the first and easier crux of pulling onto the ledge above the roof, where a good rest presents itself. Another crux appears between the 3rd and 4th bolts. Follow 2 more bolts to some easier traditional climbing up cracks and blocks. There are some fun exit moves to get to a 2-bolt anchor with chains and quick-links.

Location

From the Main Wall on the West Side, go North (upstream) about 100 meters. You can't miss "The Flying Dutchman", a prominent prow on the West Side. This route is just to the right of 'Cape of Good Hope' and about halfway between the Main Wall and 'NoJo'.

Protection

6 bolts for the bottom half of the climb leads you to easier traditional climbing for the second half. A light rack of cams up to #1 BD C4, a single set of nuts, and slings will get you to the top. A nice 2-bolt anchor with chains and quick-links are at the top to rappel down.

Photos

This route doesn't seem any harder than the one to its left. Sep 4, 2016