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Routes in West Side

Around Right S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ball Chopper T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bonsai S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cape Point T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cape of Good Hope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chucky Bill T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dehydrated Lemon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dihedral S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Excited Delirium T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Finding Forester S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hotness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hymanizer T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
LA Woman? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lemon Peel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mudslide T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
NoJo S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prow Hugger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slopestyle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tons of Fun T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.11c S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vertical Alluvium T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Manolo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildflower S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: I. Altman, K. Allinger, B. Murdoc, Sept. 25th, 2016
Page Views: 453 total, 32/month
Shared By: Ian Altman on Oct 1, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is an enjoyable longer route that ends well on a slightly overhanging prow with good exposure.

Start with blocky step-ups, and follow bolt line through easier terrain on Lemon-like choss (bolts 1-2). Stay right at 3rd bolt and out of crack and vegetated corner following positive holds into steeper, yet still fairly moderate terrain (bolts 4-6). Join a slightly overhanging arete or prow, and stay on the thing, finding the crux just above the roof (bolts 7-9). This has cool positioning up top with a Lemonesque sequence that gets easier the more you climb it.

This route is fresh, so expect a bit of dirt on the ledges for the next year or so. It has fairly decent rock, with the best of it on the top half of this longer pitch.

Location

It is visible from the Dog Gully approach as you descend to the creek... just right of the Chucky Bill buttress.

Protection

10 QDs with 2 bolt chained anchor. Please DON'T TAKE LOWERING BINERS from the chains!

Photos

Thanks to the FA crew - you created a nice route! Jul 22, 2017
Ian Altman
CO
 
Ian Altman   CO
 
Yeah thanks, Steve. I noticed the same when I climbing it earlier this month and didn't have leavers with me. Not sure why the F peeps can't just respect us using our old carabiners, and I have lockers that would fit, but they'd definitely get swiped! Jun 1, 2017
Steve Elder
Durango
Steve Elder   Durango
As of 5/27/17, the lowering biners are gone and the chain is too small to accept many locking biners. It needs quicklinks...if tightened up enough they can't be stolen. May 27, 2017
The first third follows LA Woman, which diverges up and left into increasingly grungy terrain in the dihedral. Instead, PH continues straight up, into some steep, surprising moves on the arete. Oct 11, 2016
Fritz N.
Durango, CO
Fritz N.   Durango, CO
This is a worthwhile addition to the wall; thanks for putting it up! Don't let the dirty start deter you from hopping on this fun arete. Oct 11, 2016