Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft Fixed Hardware (8)
FA: Gary N, 4/2013
Page Views: 1,359 total · 19/month
Shared By: Gary N on May 1, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Located on a prominent prow I like to call "The Flying Dutchman", 'Cape of Good Hope' ascends the left side of this feature. Easy and enjoyable climbing leads to a high 1st bolt. Continue upwards, following the bolt line or just right of the bolts. The crux presents itself around the 4th and 5th bolts with a puzzling transition up to the 6th bolt. After clipping the 6th bolt, head right to a nice crack and a good rest. From here, it's easier traditional climbing up cracks and blocks. There are some fun exit moves to get to a 2-bolt anchor with chains and quick-links.

Location

From the Main Wall on the West Side, go North (upstream) about 100 meters. You can't miss "The Flying Dutchman", a prominent prow on the West Side. This route is just to the left of 'Cape Point' and about halfway between the Main Wall and 'NoJo'.

Protection

6 bolts for the bottom half of the climb leads you to easier traditional climbing for the second half. A light rack of cams up to #3 BD C4, a single set of nuts, and slings will get you to the top. A nice 2-bolt anchor with chains and quick-links are at the top to rappel down.

Photos

Tim Matthews
Durango, CO
 
Tim Matthews   Durango, CO
 
Great route, definitely has the makings of a Lemon classic, just needs more traffic to clean out the grit! When the river is low, the easiest way up there is to walk up the EAST side of the river and cross when the west shoreline reappears. Great option if all the 10s on the main wall are busy! Sep 17, 2018