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Routes in West Side

Around Right S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ball Chopper T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bonsai S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cape Point T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cape of Good Hope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chucky Bill T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dehydrated Lemon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dihedral S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Excited Delirium T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Finding Forester S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hotness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hymanizer T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
LA Woman? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lemon Peel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mudslide T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
NoJo S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prow Hugger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slopestyle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tons of Fun T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.11c S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vertical Alluvium T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Manolo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildflower S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft Fixed Hardware (8)
FA: Gary N, 4/2013
Page Views: 1,330 total · 20/month
Shared By: Gary N on May 1, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Located on a prominent prow I like to call "The Flying Dutchman", 'Cape of Good Hope' ascends the left side of this feature. Easy and enjoyable climbing leads to a high 1st bolt. Continue upwards, following the bolt line or just right of the bolts. The crux presents itself around the 4th and 5th bolts with a puzzling transition up to the 6th bolt. After clipping the 6th bolt, head right to a nice crack and a good rest. From here, it's easier traditional climbing up cracks and blocks. There are some fun exit moves to get to a 2-bolt anchor with chains and quick-links.

Location

From the Main Wall on the West Side, go North (upstream) about 100 meters. You can't miss "The Flying Dutchman", a prominent prow on the West Side. This route is just to the left of 'Cape Point' and about halfway between the Main Wall and 'NoJo'.

Protection

6 bolts for the bottom half of the climb leads you to easier traditional climbing for the second half. A light rack of cams up to #3 BD C4, a single set of nuts, and slings will get you to the top. A nice 2-bolt anchor with chains and quick-links are at the top to rappel down.

Photos

Tim Matthews
Durango, CO
 
Tim Matthews   Durango, CO
 
Great route, definitely has the makings of a Lemon classic, just needs more traffic to clean out the grit! When the river is low, the easiest way up there is to walk up the EAST side of the river and cross when the west shoreline reappears. Great option if all the 10s on the main wall are busy! Sep 17, 2018

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Fixed Hardware Report (8)