Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Fabio Wen
Page Views: 2,553 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on Aug 30, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


55 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a long and enjoyable outing with a tricky crux at about 1/3 height. If it feels harder than 10a, you likely got the tricky sequence wrong.

Location

This is ~75 feet up river from the knotted rope. The start is easy to find- it is a low angle slab/separate block with a Fixe SS bolt so low it could practically be clipped from the ground with an easy runout to bolt #2 above.

Protection

Draws.

Photos

Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
  5.10+
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
  5.10+
This is a great, well protected route with a tricky crux sequence... onsighting it was substantially harder than onsighting Vertical Alluvium, so I'd say 5.10+ if you don't have the beta wired. Oct 19, 2011
Jim Meyer
  5.10a
Jim Meyer  
  5.10a
Totally agree w/ Dylan, this is a bit harder than Vertical Alluvium and pretty sequential through the crux. The top half is just plain brilliant fun. Jul 10, 2013
JVW
JVW  
FA - Fabio Wen. Nov 2, 2013
Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO
  5.10+
Rick Vermeil   Erie, CO
  5.10+
I could not find a 10a sequence through the crux of this despite hangdogging for a while. Felt 10+ to me while staying on the line. There was a lot of chalk on the flake to the right of the crux which puts you out of reach of the bolt by quite a bit. I would recommend Vertical Alluvium if you are looking for a 10- on the West Side. I thought V.A. was a nicer line and much more true to its given rating. Jul 7, 2014
A. Bandos
Broomfield, CO
5.10
A. Bandos   Broomfield, CO
5.10
Really fun flakes at the top. I sure didn't see how the middle went at 10a either.

Works well if you skip the low first bolt and put a runner on the second bolt. Jun 29, 2015
I really enjoyed pulling on these flakes! Solid .10 b/c. However, that's just opinion. Sep 6, 2017
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
This was a terrific route and my favorite until I did Chucky Bill. Felt harder than the others, but loved the exposure and sense of complicated movement. Jun 9, 2018
I trundled a bunch of loose rock off of Bonsai including the blocks that held the 1st and 2nd bolts. Both bolts have been replaced. I brushed off as much as I could, but it's still a little dirty down low. I climbed it when I was done on a Micro Traxion in approach shoes, and it felt like .10 maybe .10+. Definitely much less hang fire up there now! Oct 18, 2018
AEdwards Edwards
Durango, Colorado
AEdwards Edwards   Durango, Colorado
Fun route, but those giant flakes at the top are terrifying and seem ready to rip if you pulled on them the wrong way! Oct 21, 2018
I agree with the big flakes but didn't want to destroy the route. I pulled a little on them with a crowbar, and they seemed solid, so I left them. Oct 24, 2018