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Routes in West Side

Around Right S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ball Chopper T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bonsai S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cape Point T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cape of Good Hope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chucky Bill T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dehydrated Lemon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dihedral S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Excited Delirium T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Finding Forester S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hotness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hymanizer T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
LA Woman? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lemon Peel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mudslide T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
NoJo S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prow Hugger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slopestyle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tons of Fun T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.11c S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vertical Alluvium T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Manolo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildflower S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Fabio Wen
Page Views: 2,247 total, 20/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on Aug 30, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a long and enjoyable outing with a tricky crux at about 1/3 height. If it feels harder than 10a, you likely got the tricky sequence wrong.

Location

This is ~75 feet up river from the knotted rope. The start is easy to find- it is a low angle slab/separate block with a Fixe SS bolt so low it could practically be clipped from the ground with an easy runout to bolt #2 above.

Protection

Draws.

Photos

I really enjoyed pulling on these flakes! Solid .10 b/c. However, that's just opinion. Sep 6, 2017
A. Bandos
Broomfield
5.10
A. Bandos   Broomfield
5.10
Really fun flakes at the top. I sure didn't see how the middle went at 10a either.

Works well if you skip the low first bolt and put a runner on the second bolt. Jun 29, 2015
Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO
  5.10+
Rick Vermeil   Erie, CO
  5.10+
I could not find a 10a sequence through the crux of this despite hangdogging for a while. Felt 10+ to me while staying on the line. There was a lot of chalk on the flake to the right of the crux which puts you out of reach of the bolt by quite a bit. I would recommend Vertical Alluvium if you are looking for a 10- on the West Side. I thought V.A. was a nicer line and much more true to its given rating. Jul 7, 2014
JVW
JVW  
FA - Fabio Wen. Nov 2, 2013
Jim Meyer
  5.10a
Jim Meyer  
  5.10a
Totally agree w/ Dylan, this is a bit harder than Vertical Alluvium and pretty sequential through the crux. The top half is just plain brilliant fun. Jul 10, 2013
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
  5.10+
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
  5.10+
This is a great, well protected route with a tricky crux sequence... onsighting it was substantially harder than onsighting Vertical Alluvium, so I'd say 5.10+ if you don't have the beta wired. Oct 19, 2011