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Routes in West Side

Around Right S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ball Chopper T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bonsai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cape Point T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cape of Good Hope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chucky Bill T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dehydrated Lemon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dihedral S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Excited Delirium T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Finding Forester S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hotness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hymanizer T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
LA Woman? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lemon Peel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mudslide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NoJo S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prow Hugger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slopestyle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tons of Fun T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.11c S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vertical Alluvium T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Manolo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildflower S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Ben Kiessel and Ben Gardner?
Page Views: 1,934 total · 19/month
Shared By: Justin G on Jan 18, 2010 with updates from Dalton Johnson
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun, beginner route with a very easy (5.1) start for the first 15 feet before the actual climbing begins. The crux is about 2/3's of the way up. It is a fun warm-up climb.

Update from Dalton Johnson: there are three potential variations of this route beginning at the second mantel. I did them all on TR solo, so I do not know what the pro situation is like. No offense, but this route, with everything on, is no harder than a 5.7.

Var1: only use the fist crack, the middle crack on the right side of the dihedral, until the crack disappears. From there, move back onto the face and pull the roof moves. This variation makes the route 5.8 (potential pro: cams 1-4).

Var2: only use the face and left side arete. The arete will be overhanging and dirty for a little bit. Move to the arete once the face is a flat undercling. Move back to the face of the route for the last bolt. Then finish this route, 5.9+/10-.

Var3: only use the face and lieback within the dihedral! This make the route 5.9 and is a blast! If one could pull the face moves off only, I would like the beta. I do not think pro would change for this route.

Location

This is about 40 feet up the river from Chucky Bill.

Protection

It has 2 bolts and needs gear, and it has two anchors at top for toproping.

Photos

BGardner
Seattle, WA
BGardner   Seattle, WA
Recently climbed this route for the first time since Ben and I put it up.
It is fun, but the name came from the massive amount of loose rock we had to clean off this thing to make it climbable. We spent almost an entire day on this thing and moved some of the biggest rocks I've ever trundled.
Seems like it has cleaned up pretty well, but keep an eye out. This route, like a lot at Lemon, still has some loose stuff up there. Aug 19, 2012
This route lies between Prow Hugger and Wildflower, to the right of a steep gully. To call this a beginner's route is ridiculous — it is a full-value 5.9, requiring jamming, liebacking, stemming, and underclinging. It is definitely fun. Jan 16, 2017
Dalton Johnson
My Car
  5.9
Dalton Johnson   My Car
  5.9
This route is AWESOME! I ran laps on a TR solo four times because I liked it so much! If you are looking for dihedral, crack, layback, roof, face, or arete work, you can find it here. My favorite climb so far in Lemon. Still a bit dirty, especially if you use the left side arete! Jun 29, 2017

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