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Routes in West Side

Around Right S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ball Chopper T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bonsai S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cape Point T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cape of Good Hope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chucky Bill T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dehydrated Lemon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dihedral S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Excited Delirium T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Finding Forester S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hotness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hymanizer T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
LA Woman? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lemon Peel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mudslide T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
NoJo S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prow Hugger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slopestyle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tons of Fun T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.11c S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vertical Alluvium T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Manolo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildflower S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Manny Rangel
Page Views: 2,085 total · 17/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Aug 23, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

Climb a slab past some bolts to a roof, then through the crux on thin holds and continue up the face and arete to the top.

Location

Climb out the left side of the large roof.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

lance hadfield
tijeras
 
lance hadfield   tijeras
 
Great climb a little run out with some loose rock. I love this route. It is big fun. Oct 4, 2009
IanA
Durango, CO
IanA   Durango, CO
FA: Manny Rangel. Jun 24, 2010
ozman
CO / NM
 
ozman   CO / NM
 
Clearly two cruxes (if there can be two) through the middle. Thin holds throught the middle, I had to work my feet up to get this one done. Clips typically from good stances. Good route. Jul 7, 2011
Nolan Robertson
  5.11
Nolan Robertson  
  5.11
This route has a loose rock a little larger than a brick between bolts 4 and 5, it is chalked up and looks like a great jug. It might pull it out onto your belayer if you're not careful. Oct 1, 2012
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
This would be a four star route except I couldn't enjoy the climbing when I was just concerned about not blowing the crux moves and flying into a ledge. Was this route bolted on lead? If not, why the spicy bolt job? Nobody will die from a fall here and the climbing is not that hard, but...jus' sayin'. May 27, 2013
Nolan Robertson
  5.11
Nolan Robertson  
  5.11
Aaron, the first time I led this I blew the crux moves and took a clean fall, I don't know what ledge you're talking about. Since then, I have led it 3 or 4 times, it definitely makes you climb between bolts, but I don't see any reason to put more bolts in. May 28, 2013
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
The upper crux in particular has a ledge you could fly into. Perhaps I did the crux more right from where intended and the rail I grabbed had lots of lichen or loose grit on it. By this time, I'm a full body length or even more above last bolt and looking at an 8" protruding ledge feature below that. I'm not suggesting adding bolts, but just be careful on this one. I didn't want to take that fall, I'm too old to heal from broken ankles. The climbing is probably great on this route, but maybe my head isn't. May 28, 2013
Nolan Robertson
  5.11
Nolan Robertson  
  5.11
Oh I get where you are talking about at that point most people go around the corner to the left, right before the anchors. That is a spicy way to top off this route, good job, man. May 29, 2013
Ben Coyle
durango co
Ben Coyle   durango co
Hey everyone, pulled a car door-sized block of this one today. Definitely has changed the climbing after the crux over the roof, during the course of this accident which left my belayer mildly injured and my rope totally screwed I left an alpine draw with Camp biners on it. So if you grab it and wanna boost your karma, my number is 678-662-7541. Oct 6, 2013
2018 - still loose choss on a lot of this route. It could be way more fun if it were cleaned up. Make sure you and your belayer wear helmets!!!! May 18, 2018
Owen S.
Los Alamos
  5.11
Owen S.   Los Alamos
  5.11
Some large, extremely loose flakes at 2/3 height on this route. Hopefully a kind local finds some time to pull them off safely. Until then, heads up. Oct 9, 2018
Matt rappelled this the other day and trundled a bunch of loose blocks off. I rappelled it today and brushed most of the dirt off and then rope soloed it. Getting over the roof is a different sequence than before but still super cool. Route might be more like .11c now, but hopefully much safer. 3 days ago

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