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Routes in The North End

Bail Safe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bail Safe T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Bird's Nest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Childs Play T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Exiles in Babylon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fail Safe T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Generation X T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Jack The Ripper T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Kiddy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knights in White Satin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Liger, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mantleshelf Problem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Merrill's Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Possessed, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Mortem T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Raising The Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recluse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Recluse Traverse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roof aka The Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
They Died Laughing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thresher T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: webster 74 ?
Page Views: 2,084 total · 17/month
Shared By: john strand on Jul 14, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description [Suggest Change]

Apart from the dank first pitch, this is a really good route and nice warm-up for the Possessed to the right. Start up a greenish ramp angling left to a good belay-fair pro 5.9+

P2 Power over a bulge on rapidly widening finger locks to a hand crack and nice belay ledge-5.11.

The direct start is a tough and slimey 5.12- rarely done.

Location [Suggest Change]

50' left of the Possessed.

Protection [Suggest Change]

wires to 3"- should be a fixed anchor at the top

Photos

Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.11a/b
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.11a/b
This is a good route, but the fixed anchor at the top is in terrible shape. Jun 8, 2009
David Aguasca!
New York
David Aguasca!   New York
The direct start is heinously difficult. Bring a looooong stickclip unless you know can onsight 5.12 technical face.

P.s. This start is now pretty clean...clean enough for climbing, at least. Sep 20, 2009
Jeremiah Johnson
Contoocook, NH
  5.11b/c
Jeremiah Johnson   Contoocook, NH
  5.11b/c
It's not too bad to traverse over to the shiny two-bolt anchor for the Possessed and thus avoid the nasty fixed anchor entirely. Feb 23, 2010
bayard russell jr
Madison, NH
bayard russell jr   Madison, NH
This is a great route, but getting off the ground can leave folks scratching thier heads. The corner start is the way to go, but there is no pro - so try this, hang a draw on the Possessed's first bolt (hard to see from the ground but easy to get to), down climb and use it as a TR for gettin up to the belay ledge. Belay or pull the rope through the draw and keep going. Clean the draw on the way down after traverseing to the Possessed's good two bolt anchor.

This is probably the main reason no one has bothered to fix up that anchor, it's frequently just not used. May 14, 2010
AWinters
NH
  5.11b
AWinters   NH  
  5.11b
My friend had etriers in his pack so we freed up to the first bolt (v2?) on the direct start then A0'd the last two bolts to the ledge (that face is thiin). Mixes it up and goes quick. 2nd pitch is sweet! Sep 29, 2011
hasan Adil
portland,me
hasan Adil   portland,me
Not sure why its listed pg13, takes good gear. clean to fall. Sep 30, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
The regular start is a bit nasty and dirty Sep 30, 2011
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
hasan, yeah it's good gear once you get to the crack, but getting to it is probably more like R. That leaning corner has no gear and is dirty Cathedral 5.9.
I think that was my first 5.11 lead! Nice choice.......dumbass. Oct 8, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11b/c PG13
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11b/c PG13
P1: a bit of a pain in the ass. Yesterday was the second time i've done most ofthe corner start without gear and down climbed cause it was too sketch. I then did the trick with the bolt on the Possesed...

P2: I found it considerably harder than Cathedral 11a (airation and lichen delight for example) I would have called it 11b/c if I was calling it. regardless of grade, I thought it was great fun, perfect crack climbing with all the sizes :) Jul 10, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Yes, getting over to the crack ranges from scary and annoying to annoying and scary, but the climb is worth it. Once over the initial thin difficulties of the start, the crack yields every good jam in the book. Nov 30, 2017

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