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The Roof aka The Corner
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.1 from 118
votes
Routes in The North End
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[Redacted] S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bail Safe T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Be Sharp Or B Flat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0 |
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Bird's Nest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Childs Play T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Exiles in Babylon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fail Safe T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Generation X T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Jack The Ripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Kiddy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Liger, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mantleshelf Problem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Merrill's Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Possessed, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Post Mortem T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Raising The Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Recluse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Recluse Traverse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Roof aka The Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slot, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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They Died Laughing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thresher T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | joe cote and (summer 1972), FFA: Henry Barber and B. Gierke (fall 1972) |
| Page Views: | 4,785 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Jul 25, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Though often wet I highly recommend it if you find it dry. I was quite pleasantly surprised at the quality of the climbing since I've never heard much good said about it.
Here are the pros:
Great movement
Well protected
Conveniently located
Never crowded
Cons:
Often wet
Not as clean as They Died Laughing
A loose block or two
So you can make your own call. Your mission, should you choose to except it, begins in the corner capped by a roof, to the left of the popular section of the North End.
Climb moderate moves up the corner until you can gain cracks and jugs on the right wall. Climb these wonderful features to the right end of the roof over your head. Continue up the corner above for another 10-15 feet to a nice ledge.
You can belay/rap from here via a sling on tree anchor, or continue (straight up or up and right) to a two-bolt anchor above. Several nice pitches can be accessed from there.
Here are the pros:
Great movement
Well protected
Conveniently located
Never crowded
Cons:
Often wet
Not as clean as They Died Laughing
A loose block or two
So you can make your own call. Your mission, should you choose to except it, begins in the corner capped by a roof, to the left of the popular section of the North End.
Climb moderate moves up the corner until you can gain cracks and jugs on the right wall. Climb these wonderful features to the right end of the roof over your head. Continue up the corner above for another 10-15 feet to a nice ledge.
You can belay/rap from here via a sling on tree anchor, or continue (straight up or up and right) to a two-bolt anchor above. Several nice pitches can be accessed from there.
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