Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The North End

Bail Safe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Bird's Nest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Childs Play T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Exiles in Babylon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Generation X T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Jack The Ripper T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Kiddy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knights in White Satin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Liger, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mantleshelf Problem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Merrill's Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Possessed, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Mortem T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Raising The Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recluse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Recluse Traverse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roof aka The Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
They Died Laughing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thresher T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: joe cote and (summer 1972), FFA: Henry Barber and B. Gierke (fall 1972)
Page Views: 2,090 total · 25/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 25, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


48 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Though often wet I highly recommend it if you find it dry. I was quite pleasantly surprised at the quality of the climbing since I've never heard much good said about it.

Here are the pros:
Great movement
Well protected
Conveniently located
Never crowded

Cons:
Often wet
Not as clean as They Died Laughing
A loose block or two

So you can make your own call. Your mission, should you choose to except it, begins in the corner capped by a roof, to the left of the popular section of the North End.
Climb moderate moves up the corner until you can gain cracks and jugs on the right wall. Climb these wonderful features to the right end of the roof over your head. Continue up the corner above for another 10-15 feet to a nice ledge.

You can belay/rap from here via a sling on tree anchor, or continue (straight up or up and right) to a two-bolt anchor above. Several nice pitches can be accessed from there.

Location

Corner capped by a big roof on the left side of the North End.

Protection

Regular Rack.
Bolted rap station (if some moron hasn't chopped it)

Photos

chinos
 
chinos  
 
I believe this is called The Roof. someone posted it under the diedre area. just a heads up to avoid confusion.
If it is the same route you can continue up the corner after the roof to a massive ledge with an anchor. Hurley added a second pitch Raising the Roof that climbs past a few bolts in a corner and finishes with gear in horizontals to a bolt anchor also 5.9 Aug 15, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Ed Webster's book calls it "the Roof" and Jerry Handren's calls it "the Corner" i call it both...
neither seem right to me since it goes around the roof and only spends a short time in the corner haha...

but it sounds like our mighty administrator might want to choose one or combine the descriptions and decide which area it belongs in... we could call it The Roof aka (The Corner) so owners of both guidebooks know whats going on... Aug 15, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I always thought of this as more of a North End route. In fact, I think the Possessed could also be considered part of the North End. Lee, do you want to rewrite this to include "The Roof" info? I'll delete the other route submission...that is, unless anyone else objects and/or disagrees. Aug 15, 2011
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
For sure a North End route and i think the Diedre area starts with Diedre. Aug 16, 2011
AWinters   NH  
This is North End. I would also refer to 'The Possessed' and even 'Jack the Ripper' as North End routes. Aug 16, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
im on it Jay! Aug 17, 2011
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
This was a totally fun, mellow climb. To me it felt like a Gunks 5.6 rather than a 5.8. Worth doing; fun moves with good gear. What more can you ask for? Jun 23, 2015
Northeast Alpine Start
Conway, New Hampshire
  5.8
Northeast Alpine Start   Conway, New Hampshire
  5.8
It should be noted this route was cleaned around 2004 by Eric Nelson. Before that the guidebook labeled it a "Bag of S%$^" so it didn't get much traffic. It is now an unheralded gem of a climb. Great moves, good gear, not polished like the other North End classics. This is a must do IMO. It is 5.8, but a bit tricky during the on-sight. Without giving much away there will be a lot of moments where you'll be amazed at how good that hidden hold/finger lock is. I would not combine the first two pitches unless you are really strong at the grade. The shorter second pitch has a couple awkward spots, and a few "creaking" jugs, but is pretty fun climbing.

The tree that used to have a sling rap station on it at the top of pitch 1 is compromised. Earlier this summer someone saw the root system lift up as a climber rapped off it and reportedly stood on the roots to help secure it. Don't rap from that tree. Look for other options. Oct 12, 2015
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
There's a bolted rap station as of 10/15/15 Oct 23, 2015
I would not recommend to top rope this one from the bolts (still there) on the ledge right due to significant rope drag over the ledge. you'd need to trust the tree to set an anchor there or some long slings to leverage the bolts into the anchor system. fun lead, i think the grade is on point. Jul 9, 2017
Sean M
  5.8
Sean M  
  5.8
Fun 5.8, great gear and fun moves. Oct 7, 2017

More About The Roof aka The Corner

Printer-Friendly