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Routes in The North End

Bail Safe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bail Safe T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Bird's Nest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Childs Play T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Exiles in Babylon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fail Safe T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Generation X T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Jack The Ripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Kiddy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knights in White Satin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Liger, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mantleshelf Problem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Merrill's Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Possessed, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Mortem T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Raising The Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recluse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Recluse Traverse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roof aka The Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
They Died Laughing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thresher T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: August 2006 - George Hurley, Chris Noonan
Page Views: 2,245 total · 29/month
Shared By: Ian Wauchope on Apr 5, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is an extension of The Roof and provides you with a nice 3-pitch climb.

Pitch 1: Climb The Roof as usual. As you come up to the roof continue climbing for about 25' up it's right side in a moderate corner to a ledge. You can setup a gear-belay in the corner here where you can see your second, rappel from a tree on the right, or continue up the corner to the large Unicorn ledge.

Pitch 2: Continue up the corner or step right & climb up a small buttress (awkward) to the big Unicorn Ledge. Belay from a 2-bolt anchor on the left side of the ledge.

Pitch 3: Start just left of the belay at a blocky corner. Climb straight up a series of corners to some arching grooves. Move right (crux) and follow the 3 bolts up to a hand-sized horizontal crack. High-step into the horizontal and make a thin move (crux) to the 2 bolt anchor below a steep slab. Rappel from here or climb the final unprotected mossy slab for 25-30 feet to the trees at the top of the cliff.

Descent: Rappel from the 2-bolt anchors to the ledge at the finish of the North End climbs. Walk left and rappel from a tree just above Recluse.

Location

Look for a large corner capped by a roof on the left side of the North End. It's 20' left of The Slot.

Protection

standard rack to a #3 Camelot

Photos

chinos
 
chinos  
 
this climb can be done as 2 pitches as well... Apr 14, 2012
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
 
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
 
Definitely a Cathedral "9"! :) Good pump factor for sure. Jul 14, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
5.9
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
5.9
Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't george clean and maybe add a bolt to the unicorn corner for a .9 crack pitch? Liger? Pretty good climbing. Jul 16, 2012
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
 
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
 
Hi Jon! He did, it is a 10a called the Liger. Jul 17, 2012
Steve Skarvinko
SLC, UT
Steve Skarvinko   SLC, UT
I'd second making this into 2 pitch climb... I also enjoyed a nice no hands stance at off the roof (height dependant). Jul 22, 2013
Sprax Lines
Brookline, MA
 
Sprax Lines   Brookline, MA
 
Beware of the poison ivy on the ledge at the base of P3 and the Liger. As of July 12, it looked like somebody had previously cleared it from the area just below the rap rings, but it is growing back. The vines are 2 or 3 feet tall. What is the best long term solution -- spraying the leaves with some herbicide? Jul 23, 2014
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
I've done all three pitches. It's not something to repeat.... But good nonetheless as an interesting multipitch. First pitch is classic. Second pitch is bullshit. The third pitch is way awkward and pretty hard. Kind of a sandbaggy weird-fest, with lots of variety. For that reason it's kinda cool. Looks like it would almost always be wet. Suppose why this keeps it from being popular. Aug 11, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Long before the Handren Guide came out, I was told by a 'local in the know' that P1 of this climbed the "discontinuous cracks" on the face on the right...(about 5.7+ 5.8 ). That's how I did it (P1) about 2008 or so. VERY nice, cracks just "ate up nuts", the only drawback I remember was the tree anchor and the dirt the rope had to run through on the rap off. Aug 15, 2017

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