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Routes in The North End
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Bail Safe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Be Sharp Or B Flat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0 |
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Bird's Nest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Childs Play T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Exiles in Babylon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fail Safe T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Generation X T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Jack The Ripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Kiddy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Knights in White Satin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Liger, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mantleshelf Problem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Merrill's Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Possessed, The T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Post Mortem T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Raising The Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Recluse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Recluse Traverse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Roof aka The Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slot, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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They Died Laughing T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thresher S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 44.06728, -71.16671 |
| FA: | August 2006 - George Hurley, Chris Noonan |
| Page Views: | 4,834 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Ian Wauchope on Apr 5, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
This climb is an extension of The Roof and provides you with a nice 3-pitch climb.
Pitch 1: Climb The Roof as usual. As you come up to the roof continue climbing for about 25' up it's right side in a moderate corner to a ledge. You can setup a gear-belay in the corner here where you can see your second, rappel from a tree on the right, or continue up the corner to the large Unicorn ledge.
Pitch 2: Continue up the corner or step right & climb up a small buttress (awkward) to the big Unicorn Ledge. Belay from a 2-bolt anchor on the left side of the ledge.
Pitch 3: Start just left of the belay at a blocky corner. Climb straight up a series of corners to some arching grooves. Move right (crux) and follow the 3 bolts up to a hand-sized horizontal crack. High-step into the horizontal and make a thin move (crux) to the 2 bolt anchor below a steep slab. Rappel from here or climb the final unprotected mossy slab for 25-30 feet to the trees at the top of the cliff.
Descent: Rappel from the 2-bolt anchors to the ledge at the finish of the North End climbs. Walk left and rappel from a tree just above Recluse.
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