Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: L Cote D Arey11/4/68 FFA Henry Barber, Sept 1971
Page Views: 4,913 total · 34/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 28, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

87 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Recluse is an awesome route. The moderate climbing is better than the crux, but the crux is a fun boulder problem in its own right.

The start is hard for the grade, period. Some have called it 5.11b. Others call it "solid" 5.10. After the first two or three moves, the locks and jams are bomber and you can cruise one of the best moderate cracks at the crag to the top. Move left at one point up high to join the finish of Bird's Nest.


To the right of Bird's Nest (5.9), you will see a thin finger crack up a short steep section of rock leading up to a beautiful and more moderate hand crack.


Small gear down low, then standard hand crack gear to the top.



An interesting Top-rope variation goes out left before the mantle at the place where the super small crack splits off left. Follow the crack left then place a couple super small pieces (if leading, consider bringing your small steel triangle nuts (or borrowing them))
mantle on make-believe holds and let out a gasp of relief after the mantle. Continue up to anchors/tree. Apr 20, 2007
m-earle   USA
I believe you are reffering to "Failsafe," a line that breaks left off of "birds nest." I could be wrong, its been a while. Sep 17, 2007
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Paul Ross used to say" a good intro to a hard 5.10 move", I would say a better intro to a 5.11 move. Tricky but good. Henry won a six pack doing the ffa of this.
Failsafe is the other route, a tough and scantily protected line Jul 1, 2008
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
i heard about henry's win yesterday lol but i wanna try it on aid :) looks like a blast :) Jun 2, 2009
In keeping with so many NH finger cracks, this one packed a lot more punch than I expected from the ground. I'm not sure that I figured out the trick beta though. Definitely a fun line with great pro and nice movement. Sep 10, 2009
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
isn't it, great route that doesn't as much lead traffic as it should. Set that first nut and you can fall till you get the move, then it's like a .9 to the top. Sep 11, 2009
RyderS Stroud
Dali, Yunnan Province, CN
RyderS Stroud   Dali, Yunnan Province, CN
You can sink a small nut and #1 cam in to free yourself to reef on the crux moves all you want. Put your bouldering hat on for a few moves, and once you're in the crack above, the hard stuff is over. A little funkiness at the top out to the slab may surprise you, but nothing horrible.

Make like Henry Barber and friends and wager some beer on a send! Jul 27, 2014
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
Awesome route. I heard that with some tricky beta the crux is 10+. Felt really really hard. Aug 19, 2014
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Really fun line. After the brutal crux, the crack is just as good as the other .9's on this wall, and offers some variety to them taboot. If you have to aid through the crux, it's worth it to try your hand at the rest of this very cool climb. Sep 28, 2015
Zac St. Jules
New Hampshire
Zac St. Jules   New Hampshire
Because there is really only one move that is strenuous Im hesitant to agree with the consensus of 11a. The climbing after the start is only 5.8. May 14, 2016
Michael NH
Wenham, MA
Michael NH   Wenham, MA
Great route if the north end is busy. It'd be easy to aid through the crux to reach the good lock, then you have a 5.8 crack to yourself. May 23, 2016