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Routes in The North End

Bail Safe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Bird's Nest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Childs Play T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Exiles in Babylon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Generation X T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Jack The Ripper T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Kiddy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knights in White Satin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Liger, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mantleshelf Problem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Merrill's Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Possessed, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Mortem T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Raising The Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recluse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Recluse Traverse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roof aka The Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
They Died Laughing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thresher T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Anderson, October 27, 1972
Page Views: 4,691 total, 35/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Jan 2, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Lieback the polished crack to a ledge halfway up. The crux comes early. Follow the upper crack to the tree that is the rap anchor.

Location

The route starts in a small right-facing corner. This is the right most route at the North End (or Practice Slab). Park near the gate for the road to the top and follow the trail uphill.

Protection

Gear to 1 inch.

Photos

David
 
David  
 
Watch out for the polished beginning, potential ankle breaker. Aug 24, 2017
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
The opening moves are as slick as greased owl snot. Lots or people pop off. After ten feet things ease to reasonable. Watch your ankles---yes even on a toprope! Sep 18, 2015
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Lieback if you dare. My partner, an experienced crack climber and trad leader, popped out of the crux due to the super-polished nature of the left side of the crack. Lots of feet on both faces. Aug 19, 2014
Derek Jf
Northeast
  5.7+
Derek Jf   Northeast
  5.7+
that runout start is safe climbing for the experienced leader. Only protect if you are learning how to lead on crack climbs - this will feel much harder than what you think is 5.7 Jun 25, 2014
Franz N
Mass.
  5.7
Franz N   Mass.
  5.7
Small finger jam fun. Lead this only using nuts and tricams for fun. Sep 3, 2013
This is a good, fun route to warm up or wind down on. The lieback start is a somewhat thuggish crux, but good technique makes it over quickly. After the little ledge, thoughtful climbing takes you to the top.

PLEASE- protect the start before you set off. A slip on the start will have you falling either ankle or tailbone first into a nice pointed rock at the base. A .75 BD Camalot can very easily be placed high in the lieback crack from a stance before you set off. Keep a tight belay and you're good to go. Jun 4, 2011
Tim Wolsonovich
Boston
 
Tim Wolsonovich   Boston
 
Low crux was real tough for me. Took me 3 tries to get started, then some easy climbing after that. Learned the OK finger jam that day. Sep 19, 2010
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i liked this route but the beginning finger locks were a little tricky Jun 2, 2009