Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: George Hurley,David Lottmann,Sept. 2006
Page Views: 561 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chris Gesek on Sep 11, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

This is an alternate finish to Raising the Roof. From the Unicorn Ledge climb the inside corner of the slab past 2 bolts to a ledge. Continue up the corner via a finger crack. You can exit right at the top of the corner for an easier finish(5.8) or finish up the crack(5.10) to the dirty slab above.

Location

Climb the first 2 pitches of Raising the Roof to the Unicorn ledge.

Protection

Standard rack to 3".

Photos

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nd chu
 
nd chu  
 
This climb exceeded my expectations, and definitely deserves more rock traffic (although you'll see why it's a great ice climb when you get on it)!

When you get up to the unicorn ledge and look right you'll think, "Wow, that looks dirty and crappy." You'll only be right about the first part! It's surprisingly fun climbing, and although somewhat dusty and green, the holds are all pretty clean, fun, and good. The 5.10 finish is definitely the way to go, great locks and fun feet.

Besides the 2-bolt approach to the corner, there is also a very fun 3-bolt variation up the slab. It's 5.10 and a great friction challenge with no hand holds until the last move. Highly suggested!

Protection: you won't need anything above a 1.5" piece (BD #1).

There is a rappel anchor at the top on a tree. Probably still easier to rappel than walk off from here. Jun 27, 2018