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Routes in The North End

Bail Safe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Bird's Nest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Childs Play T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Exiles in Babylon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Generation X T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Jack The Ripper T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Kiddy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knights in White Satin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Liger, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mantleshelf Problem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Merrill's Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Possessed, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Mortem T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Raising The Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recluse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Recluse Traverse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roof aka The Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
They Died Laughing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thresher T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Undetermined
Page Views: 3,465 total, 27/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 29, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The easiest route at The North End.... A good practice route that can be split in to multiple pitches for practicing the logistics of multipitch climbing...
Toward the right side of the cliff just left of Kiddy Crack (5.7) look for the hand sized crack that is steep at first then easing off to a lower angle... Jam your way up with good protection and interesting moves...

Location

Toward the right side of the cliff just left of Kiddy Crack (5.7) look for the hand sized crack

Protection

Standard rack and a fixed pin..
There were two bolts at the top but they may have been lost in the recent rash of bolt chopping that hit The North End...

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.6
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.6
I think the rating was established where there was, like, 2 or 3 feet more dirt at the base. Way harder than 5.5...how about 5.6+ ?! Aug 15, 2017
Tom Sherman
Bristol, RI
5.6
Tom Sherman   Bristol, RI
5.6
I placed the first piece of gear high enough to protect the entry move, on a solid jam and in my hiking boots (I'm 6'-2" though). If you want to protect the next bit, you'd need a #5, but this is easier climbing so forget about it and move on.

The upper crux I crack-climbed... holy awkward, way easier as a layback. Oct 13, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.7
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.7
This is a total sandbag at the grade (I'll be brave and call it like it is: strenuous and awkward 5.7). The opening moves are tricky and insecure and greasy---another ankle-snapping possibility, even on TR. Careful spotting for both leader and 2nd is important. Once on standing on the ledge 6 feet up, you're all set. Sep 18, 2015
Pretty fun. Reminds me of alpine routes like Whitney or Pinnacle, with the big blocky features. Sep 11, 2015
Eric Nguyen
Natick, MA
  5.6
Eric Nguyen   Natick, MA
  5.6
Tricky start. Then lots of opportunities to use big pieces! And there are bolts and rap rings at the top of the climb. Certainly not necessary, but they are there. Jul 24, 2015
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.5
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.5
no bolts ever on the route, rap from the tree, bolts unecessary. and no, the chopper doesn't read this. Jun 28, 2010
Does anyone else think this one feels like it has been greased with vaseline or something? It's an easy climb, but IMHO the rock just feels slippery. Jun 21, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
The first rule is: you don't talk about bolts at the North End. The second rule is: you don't talk about bolts at the North End... Jul 23, 2008
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.5
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.5
Last I saw (3 months ago), the tree between Child's Play and Recluse was slung and had rap rings...but no bolts, though. Jul 22, 2008
Adam Sadowski
Watertown, MA
 
Adam Sadowski   Watertown, MA
 
Raps in place? Here we go again... Jul 22, 2008