Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Jim Dunn (barefoot?), Ajax Greene, Ed Webster. July 1976
Page Views: 38 total · 4/month
Shared By: Nick C on Sep 18, 2024
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

An often wet route that climbs the left side of the chimney in between Raising the Roof and The Possessed. Having been recently cleaned by a local wire-brush enthusiast (Sept 2024), it's possible that this climb has had very few repeats since the first ascent. According to said enthusiast, the amount of loose blocks trundled from the route support this. Be careful, though; there is still some loose rock and the belayer stands right in the landing zone. 

This route might seem spooky based on appearance and name but it's actually well protected and burly. Start with slabby thin crack that leads to a dihedral and a crack that widens to BD #5 size. Pull the roof and tackle the steep climbing to the ledge (BD 2-4). 

There's no permanent anchor: a horizontal crack takes hand size gear and the bolted anchor for The Roof is 10 feet or so to the right. 

Location Suggest change

In between The Possessed and The Roof

Protection Suggest change

Singles to BD 1, doubles 2-5

Photos

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