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Routes in P.A.'s Mother

Altar Boy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Archbishop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coed Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
E.B. Jeebies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exposed Cleavage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Hopes S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobnail Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mama's Boy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Invention S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pissant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R.R. Crossing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Throulin's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throulin's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tough Guy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Pinches to Paradise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Andy Knight
Page Views: 200 total, 2/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 24, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Balancy climbing on small holds with a few larger holds here and there.

Start up using small, but positive holds past three bolts to a ledge. Continue above the ledge where the line gets slightly overhanging after the fourth bolt. Straight above the last bolt it is quite thin and desperate, until after a reachy move to another ledge just below the chains.

Location

The left-most bolted route on the west face of P.A.'s Mother.

Protection

6 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

joenathan97
  5.10b
joenathan97  
  5.10b
Agree on the last part of the route, you just have to get two secure crimps and go for that ledge. Watch out though, when I went for it, I knocked down some loose rock and almost hit my belayer. Mar 11, 2016
This was a great route, the beginning was super mellow and consistent but the climbing then gets a tad harder at the top but in a good way. The bolts are in perfect places for the lunge move to the top, you have 3 points of contact so it is not a dyno people don't let this deter you from doing the climb. this was a really mellow 5.10b. the tricky part is to stay balanced to clip the last bolt which was my favorite move. picture when I redpoint here soon. Jul 25, 2014
Kenny Clark
State College, PA
  5.10b
Kenny Clark   State College, PA
  5.10b
I agree about the lunge to the top-out ledge. It's the best way to get past that part. Get some decent holds, and go for it. There are really no feet to move up on, plus, the dyno is fun. I guess, if you can get it, you could traverse out left and skip it all, but you're definitely missing the 10b. Jul 13, 2011
Jon Bitter
Waco, Tx
  5.10b
Jon Bitter   Waco, Tx
  5.10b
I agree with everything about the top, but the bottom was tougher than I expected too. The only way I could figure out to do it was to use the crack and pull straight off to the right. Sep 7, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
The part after the last bolt is THIN! I was running out of gas and had to lunge for the great top-out ledge. That for me was the crux. May 7, 2009