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Routes in PA's Mother

Altar Boy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Archbishop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coed Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
E.B. Jeebies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exposed Cleavage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Hopes S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobnail Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ladybait T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mama's Boy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Invention S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pissant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R.R. Crossing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regular Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Throulin's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throulin's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tough Guy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Pinches to Paradise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 267 total · 2/month
Shared By: Lee Jensen on May 21, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description

You might feel like crying home to momma if you go into this route thinking that it will be a 5.8 cruiser. The first bolt clips easily and then you hit the crux. Fun moves with small crimpers over almost vertical rock make this route a great place to hone your balance technique.

Location

Located on the far right of PA's Mother.

Protection

Five bolts to a two chain anchor.

The FA authorized that the route be bolted due to the difficultly of protecting the route with gear.

Photos

Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.8+
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.8+
Definitely a balancy, technical climb (hmmm... it's weird saying that about a 5.8). There's nothing too terribly difficult on the climb, but you need to hunt around for the holds. Mar 26, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.8+
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.8+
Seemed a bit easier this time around. Enjoyable climbing. Anyone led it on gear recently? It's 5.8 R and trad in the Ruckman guide. Seems like it'd be fun. Jul 13, 2009
Was glad there was a draw already hanging on the second bolt. Balancy is a good word for this line. Jul 13, 2009
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.8+
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.8+
Echoing the balancy comments. Stiff for a 5.8. Would be really hard for someone who barely leads 5.8. I actually felt that this was just about as hard as Quality, to the left. Pretty fun, technical, sustained climb. Good change from the jug hauls that so many 5.8 are. Apr 16, 2010
Michael Davidson
Bellevue, WA
 
Michael Davidson   Bellevue, WA
 
Awesome sustained, balence-y climb. Highly recommended. Jun 8, 2010
Kenny Clark
State College, PA
  5.8+
Kenny Clark   State College, PA
  5.8+
It seemed to me like the crux was from the 1st to the 2nd bolt, and it's a little ways. If you don't feel comfortable with a possible fall onto the belay ledge, then beware. After the 2nd bolt I felt like it eased up considerably. Mar 30, 2011
Nathaniel Holt
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Nathaniel Holt   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Every time I climb this route from the first to the second bold seems harder than 5.8 and every time it makes me work, maybe that's why I keep going back. Jun 13, 2012
Tim Moore
  5.9
Tim Moore  
  5.9
Good climb. Slightly technical and balancy not your typical 5.8 climb that is for sure. Thought it was more of a 5.9 especially with how bad the feet can be at times and how exposed you can get especially at the top if you stay on route Mar 16, 2014
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10- PG13
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10- PG13
Really high quality climbing that is oddly bolted and very clearly harder than 5.8. Just because it's sandbagged doesn't decrease it's quality, however! Really fun movement with bolts clipped at awkward stances. I was lucky and had a 6'2" gal lead the route first, then I led it on her draws which made clipping quite easier. If you blow it clipping the 2nd bolt there is deck potential. Aug 24, 2014
joenathan97
  5.8+
joenathan97  
  5.8+
The crux for me was right around the second or third bolt. After that its not bad at all. Definitely a fun 5.8! Mar 5, 2016

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