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Routes in P.A.'s Mother

Altar Boy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Archbishop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coed Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
E.B. Jeebies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exposed Cleavage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Hopes S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobnail Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mama's Boy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Invention S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pissant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R.R. Crossing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Throulin's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throulin's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tough Guy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Pinches to Paradise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Andy Knight
Page Views: 2,420 total, 19/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 10, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Balancy, steep climbing on small edges with some sidepulls, pinches and a finger jam or two. The holds are there but some require a bit of hunting to find.

The climbing is a fairly continuous level of difficulty with a small roof between the first and second bolts and the bit between the last bolt and the anchors being just a bit harder.

There is an 18-inch wide ledge from which you can belay and start the route. If you do so, then the route is about 50 feet in length. If you start and belay from the wider, more comfortable, level area below the route then the length is about 65 feet.

Location

This is the bolted route immediately right of Regular Route, the obvious crack up the right face on the west side of P.A.'s Mother. Alternatively, it is the second-from-the-right bolted route on that face.

Protection

6 bolts to hanger-and-ring anchors.

Photos

joenathan97
  5.9
joenathan97  
  5.9
Low crux and the rest is great climbing. Made a couple big moves but they weren't necessary. Mar 5, 2016
Tanner Wixom
SoCal
  5.10a
Tanner Wixom   SoCal
  5.10a
I agree the crux is low. The second and third bolts were the most difficult. My partner concocted probably the biggest "safe" fall you could possibly get on this route. He was reaching clear above his head to clip the 6th bolt. Being that there is 8-10 feet between bolt 5 and 6, that translated to about 13-15 feet of rope out when he fell. He ended up just below the little roof feature near the bottom. Sep 9, 2012
Canyon Copa  
 
Good route with holds at weird angles that make you have to shift your balance throughout. Will tire you out early if you're not in good shape which can make the finish pretty desperate. Jun 1, 2012
Michael Davidson
Bellevue, WA
  5.10a
Michael Davidson   Bellevue, WA
  5.10a
Really sustained, IMO, but I'm weak. Mar 13, 2011
Chris- there is a good jug right above the third bolt that is the best option for clipping. Once you get that jug you also have good feet.
Trying to clip the third bolt from below- off what looks like it's going to be a jug but turns out to be a sloping rail - would be iffy. Nov 2, 2010
Chris-Baird  
 
Anyone have tips for specific holds for clipping the third bolt? Sep 21, 2010
agree --- the 3rd bolt is quite balancy - especially if you don't have a long reach --- I'm 5'10". On Saturday, 8/7/10 my son was belaying a climbing partner friend. My son was belaying from the lower area. The climber slipped as he was clipping the 3rd bolt. Due to the rope that was played-out for the clip, he decked on the shelf (where you could belay from)~15 foot fall. He was in the "rope stretch" phase of the fall so the impact wasn't too severe ---- just a really bruised butt. Good idea to play-out just enough rope for the 3rd bolt clip. Aug 9, 2010
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.9
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.9
This was a lot like Mama's Boy on the right to me. Fairly sustained, balancy, great quality rock, and a few times you have to go looking for the holds. I also thought they were about the same difficulty. Both the routes are fun because they require using several different kinds of holds and techniques, and you do need to keep pretty focused. Apr 16, 2010
Jason Madsen
5.10a
Jason Madsen  
5.10a
hardest part is clipping the 3rd bolt it's really weird Sep 13, 2009
Definitely focus on the feet. Little footholds, side-pull crimpers, all the way up. If you can get the technique, it isn't too hard. Fun route, though. Sep 13, 2009
Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah
  5.9
Christian "crisco" Burrell   PG, Utah
  5.9
Really got to keep working the sequences all the way to the top. Nice to have a route that keeps you focused. Jul 13, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.9
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.9
Fun route. The crux for me was low down, I think between the first and second bolts. The crimpers out left there just aren't quite as good as they look. After that it's pretty cruiser climbing. Jul 13, 2009