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Routes in P.A.'s Mother

Altar Boy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Archbishop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coed Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
E.B. Jeebies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exposed Cleavage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Hopes S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobnail Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mama's Boy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Invention S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pissant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R.R. Crossing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Throulin's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throulin's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tough Guy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Pinches to Paradise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 262 total, 2/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 10, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

Wide chimney stemming, big jugs, big moves on slopey sidepulls, a tenuous pinch, and a balancy crimp or two. This route has some fun moves and has a great feeling of exposure up high.

Start by scrambling up the chimney between the face with the big roof and the face to the right. Start stemming and clip the first bolt. Think about transitioning to the face. Decide "That looks pretty hard; I'll stem up a bit and clip the next bolt and then try the face". Repeat. After the third bolt, transition to the face on some big jugs and think, "Did I just cheat?"

Continue up the somewhat steeper upper face on big jugs and think, "This doesn't feel as hard as 5.10a; I must have cheated". Run out of jugs, make some tenuous, balancy moves as well as some big sweeping, layback-style moves and think, "Oh, this explains it."

All in all, quite a fun route if you can overcome your guilt at not trying the 5.2-hard-for-me face with the first three bolts.

Location

This is the right-most bolted route on the west face of P.A.'s Mother that is split by the large roof.

Protection

7 bolts to hanger-and-ring anchors.
Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
  5.9+
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
  5.9+
First, you have possibly the greatest route description ever written! (Really, just do yourself a favor and go read that thing again). Then you hop up in a sweet chimney that reminds you not all sport climbing requires tendons of steel, transition to a little leap of faith to get you back on the wall where crimps and side pulls bring you back to reality and remind you most sport climbing does (which is why you just bought that hangboard). Then you get a bit of exposure on a route reminiscent of "Call it a Knight", a perfect view at the chains of the sunset, valley, and of the poor souls across the stream fighting for space at "The Kitchen", and a happy reminder that they aren't you because you ventured across that stream and have a wall with 17 routes all to yourself! Jul 16, 2017
joenathan97
  5.10a
joenathan97  
  5.10a
This is seriously such a fun route. It has everything from stemming to side pulls. The crux was near the top going for the last bolt I believe. Mar 5, 2016
Alma Madsen
New York, NY
 
Alma Madsen   New York, NY
 
Really fun climb, and a great warm-up route, as it starts out easy and gets more challenging at the top. Apr 17, 2010
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I thought this was a great route. As is said in the route description, the crux is near the top. Very enjoyable climbing throughout on (mostly) positive holds. May 7, 2009
Klimbien
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
Klimbien   St.George Orem Denver Vegas
Awesome route description....I wish they all came like this! May 5, 2009
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
 
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
 
I really enjoyed this route. I was wondering whether I was doing it right at the beginning and like the description says...I was thinking "this can't be .10a". The top part is definitely the crux and a move or two for which I was glad for my reach. Nov 15, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Added correct name and FA info per Darren Knezek. Dec 11, 2007