Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 586 total · 4/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 10, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Wide chimney stemming, big jugs, big moves on slopey sidepulls, a tenuous pinch, and a balancy crimp or two. This route has some fun moves and has a great feeling of exposure up high.

Start by scrambling up the chimney between the face with the big roof and the face to the right. Start stemming and clip the first bolt. Think about transitioning to the face. Decide "That looks pretty hard; I'll stem up a bit and clip the next bolt and then try the face". Repeat. After the third bolt, transition to the face on some big jugs and think, "Did I just cheat?"

Continue up the somewhat steeper upper face on big jugs and think, "This doesn't feel as hard as 5.10a; I must have cheated". Run out of jugs, make some tenuous, balancy moves as well as some big sweeping, layback-style moves and think, "Oh, this explains it."

All in all, quite a fun route if you can overcome your guilt at not trying the 5.2-hard-for-me face with the first three bolts.

Location

This is the right-most bolted route on the west face of P.A.'s Mother that is split by the large roof.

Protection

7 bolts to hanger-and-ring anchors.

Photos