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Routes in PA's Mother
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Altar Boy T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Archbishop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Coed Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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E.B. Jeebies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Exposed Cleavage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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High Hopes S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hobnail Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ladybait T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mama's Boy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mother of Invention S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pissant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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R.R. Crossing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Throulin's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Throulin's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Tough Guy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Two Pinches to Paradise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Darren Knezek |
| Page Views: | 891 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Perin Blanchard on Jun 10, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane |
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Description
Wide chimney stemming, big jugs, big moves on slopey sidepulls, a tenuous pinch, and a balancy crimp or two. This route has some fun moves and has a great feeling of exposure up high.
Start by scrambling up the chimney between the face with the big roof and the face to the right. Start stemming and clip the first bolt. Think about transitioning to the face. Decide "That looks pretty hard; I'll stem up a bit and clip the next bolt and then try the face". Repeat. After the third bolt, transition to the face on some big jugs and think, "Did I just cheat?"
Continue up the somewhat steeper upper face on big jugs and think, "This doesn't feel as hard as 5.10a; I must have cheated". Run out of jugs, make some tenuous, balancy moves as well as some big sweeping, layback-style moves and think, "Oh, this explains it."
All in all, quite a fun route if you can overcome your guilt at not trying the 5.2-hard-for-me face with the first three bolts.
Start by scrambling up the chimney between the face with the big roof and the face to the right. Start stemming and clip the first bolt. Think about transitioning to the face. Decide "That looks pretty hard; I'll stem up a bit and clip the next bolt and then try the face". Repeat. After the third bolt, transition to the face on some big jugs and think, "Did I just cheat?"
Continue up the somewhat steeper upper face on big jugs and think, "This doesn't feel as hard as 5.10a; I must have cheated". Run out of jugs, make some tenuous, balancy moves as well as some big sweeping, layback-style moves and think, "Oh, this explains it."
All in all, quite a fun route if you can overcome your guilt at not trying the 5.2-hard-for-me face with the first three bolts.
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