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Routes in P.A.'s Mother

Altar Boy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Archbishop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coed Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
E.B. Jeebies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exposed Cleavage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Hopes S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobnail Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mama's Boy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Invention S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pissant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R.R. Crossing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Throulin's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throulin's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tough Guy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Pinches to Paradise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Andy Knight
Page Views: 103 total, 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 29, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Delicate face climbing; a ledge rest; small and off-camber holds in a broken crack system.

A thin start with a bit of weaving to the left and then back to the first bolt, followed by careful movement on tricky handholds. A welcome undercling with slopey, slippery feet and finally a few larger holds and a respite from the delicate movement.

After a rest on the shelf continue up with some trickery that involves lieback-style moves from one side to the other, one bomber handjam, and more delicate climbing.

Location

The first bolted line to the left of the “chimney” crack that is at the left side of the large roof on the left side of the west face of P.A.’s Mother.

Protection

5 bolts, hangers-and-ring anchors.

Photos

Canyon Copa  
 
Had a similar experience bringing a group of beginners up here on a busy day and thought this route looked doable for everybody. We moved on to an easier route after I finished it. Not a good route for beginners. Jun 1, 2012
Klimbien
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
 
Klimbien   St.George Orem Denver Vegas
 
A bit deceiving, my partner and I took a look at this and thought oh we could run up this real quick to warm up on....yeah, it didn't work out like that! You get one rest in the middle of the route, but other than that the route is really consistent to the grade. We were confused on the start, the guide pic stays on the face, the route description says between the arete and the main crack. I tried it both and found them both to be about the same, maybe a touch more committing on the main face (same face as the bolts). I'd recommend warming up and THEN climbing this route. May 19, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Good route that felt pretty darn hard. Yeah, inobvious is a good description. The crux for me was figuring out what to do with those crappy little underclings above the ledge... May 7, 2009
I remember this being very inobvious to climb...the pump came from searching for eaxactly where to go. May 21, 2008