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Routes in P.A.'s Mother

Altar Boy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Archbishop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coed Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
E.B. Jeebies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exposed Cleavage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Hopes S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobnail Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mama's Boy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Invention S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pissant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R.R. Crossing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Throulin's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throulin's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tough Guy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Pinches to Paradise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 137 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Oct 27, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Fantastic climb! Climb Coed Crack for 35 feet or so and then branch off to the right, heading for the obvious finger crack splitting the steep upper wall. The crack takes gear well. The crux is probably taking the time to place gear. It's pumpy! And turning the lip is problematic if you're pumped. There are good holds up there, you just need to know where to find them. There are good footholds throughout.

Location

This route is on the south side of PA's Mother, to the right of Coed Crack. Start on Coed Crack and branch right before it gets steep

Protection

A set of nuts, a set of C3's or TCU's, cams from small to maybe .75

Photos

Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I'd looked at this crack for years and thought, man, that looks hard! And yeah, it's hard, but the pro is bomber! And I thought it was probably pretty crappy, since I've never seen anyone on it. But I was very pleasantly surprised. Ok, maybe the kinda crappy climbing on Coed Crack leading up to it detracts from it a bit, any maybe other people won't think it's uber classic, but it's now one of my personal favorite trad climbs in the canyon. Oct 27, 2008
Some perfect fingerlocks keep you locked in well (go figure) and a hidden big LB hold up high saves you if you are a bit pumped. Also there is a "Thank God" hold back a small bit from the lip to the left of the crack.
I am now amazed that more people don't do this thing! I will do it again for sure.
-Small nuts and perfect C3's (go buy them from Mountainworks {There you go D.K.!}) Oct 27, 2008