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Routes in PA's Mother

Altar Boy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Archbishop, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coed Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
E.B. Jeebies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exposed Cleavage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Hopes S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobnail Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ladybait T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mama's Boy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Invention S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pissant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R.R. Crossing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regular Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Throulin's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throulin's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tough Guy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Pinches to Paradise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Andy Knight, Darren Knezek
Page Views: 2,019 total · 15/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 26, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Description

A juggy climb up an arete that looks harder than it is. The hardest part is getting above the first bolt, but it isn't difficult once you discover one of what Alanis Morrisette put her hand in.

The first part is vertical, followed by a ledge/set back, then a bit that is almost vertical past the last bolt, then low-angled to the anchors.

Location

Located on the arete just right of the wide chimney found on the right side of the central area of PA's Mother that has the large roof. Or alternatively, the arete to the left of Regular Route.

Protection

5 bolts to anchors. This can be easily toproped after leading.

Photos

Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.7
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.7
Good climb for beginners. Like the description says, it's not as hard as it looks. The anchors are a bit far back from the top, which makes toproping a little difficult. Mar 26, 2008
Darren Knezek
  5.7
Darren Knezek  
  5.7
Andy and I put this up together and called it, High Hopes. May 22, 2008
Klimbien
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
 
Klimbien   St.George Orem Denver Vegas
 
Good route, great for the leader who is just getting into the head games maybe. The route climbs very easy, huge holds all the way to the top with no real crux. The route definitely looks harder than it really is. The Anchors were placed well so that they can double for the anchors on top of E.B. Jeebies. May 19, 2009
Fun climbing. While the holds are really good, don't blow the second clip. Jul 13, 2009
Jon Bitter
Waco, Tx
 
Jon Bitter   Waco, Tx
 
I thought that the only fun climbing here was up till the second bolt. After that it was more of a scramble than a climb. Sep 7, 2009
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.7
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.7
I thought this climb was a blast. Great jug haul up huge, solid holds. Wish it were a little longer. Apr 16, 2010
Michael Davidson
Bellevue, WA
 
Michael Davidson   Bellevue, WA
 
Just an FYI, the second bolt is gone. I'm not sure when this happened. Mar 13, 2011
BJB
Texas
  5.7
BJB   Texas
  5.7
I loved how this climb looks like it could be a little hard because the start is kind of steep, but after you feel around for it, there are more good, deep holds than you could know what to do with.
After the second bolt though it does sort of turn into a scramble.
@ Michael's post: Also, I found the second bolt exactly where it is in the topo, so maybe someone replaced it. Mar 6, 2012
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
 
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
 
The first two bolts were missing but have been replaced in the original bolt holes. The route has its own anchors now. Thanks for providing the hardware DK! Sep 5, 2013
Steven Jones
  5.7
Steven Jones  
  5.7
The first two bolts are fun, slightly overhung, juggy climbing. Easy enough. After that if you stay left of the bolts it really does feel like more of a scramble than anything, but if you stay right on the face of the arete it earns the 5.7 grade.

John Ross is a saint for giving this route its own chains. They're directly above the last bolt in the beta picture (as opposed to using the ones next door on E.B. Jeebies about 6 feet back over the edge) and make toproping this climb a breeze. May 10, 2016

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