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Routes in P.A.'s Mother

Altar Boy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Archbishop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coed Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
E.B. Jeebies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exposed Cleavage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Hopes S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobnail Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mama's Boy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Invention S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pissant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R.R. Crossing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Throulin's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throulin's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tough Guy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Pinches to Paradise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,369 total, 10/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 13, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Coed Crack starts with about 6 or 7 feet of easy, not-quite vertical climbing, then easy, low-angled climbing following a shallow, flaring, offwidth crack until the face goes vertical about 10 feet before the end of the climb. The climbing is essentially all face holds, although I suppose if you really wanted to you could get in an offwidth move or two near the top.

Location

Coed Crack is on a south face a few hundred feet past the gate on the north side of the canyon, across the creek and after a short, easy scramble through scrub oak to the base. Descent is via rappel or walk off around to the Northeast.

Protection

Mostly wide stuff. I used 2 #1 Camalot C4s near the bottom, a #5 C4 near the middle, slung a horn, and used a #6 C4 at the start of the vertical section. The vertical section is bigger than a #6. There is a two-chain anchor on top on the left side.
godfather
5.7
godfather  
5.7
Topped the route and found access to the chains rather easy and safe, but their location behind the edge of the rock face demanded long rigging that made rappelling over the side tricky. I eventually opted to backup my rappel device, keep it cinched, and use my hands a little to get through the major crack, then ease off the backup and rappel as usual. The width of the crack near the top made chimneying rather impossible (unless you're extremely skinny), and with the bit of overhang at the crux, the difficulty is certainly more than 5.6. Myself and other climbers who routinely ascend 5.8's and 5.9's found the selection of options at the crux a bit more challenging than what we're used to. A bit tough to belay, as the ledge at the bottom leaves little room for standing. Aug 6, 2014
Did this last fall. Most of the route leaves something to be desired. The upper part is good offwidth practice. I also climbed it on the face to the left and the holds were huge as well. Mar 12, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Did this route for the first time today and I really enjoyed it. I took a set of nuts and cams from .75 to #6 Camalot. I placed two nuts and .75, 1, 2, 5, and 6 Camalots, along with the green Big Bro (#3, I think). I should have taken the blue one (#4?) for near the top, but a #6 Camalot was good enough. I also should have taken more finger-sized cams, but it wasn't a big deal and I was able to get nuts in just fine.

I don't think this route gets done very much. I've actually never seen anyone on it, and there are plants and spiderwebs everywhere. Near the top, the crack is bigger than I thought it was. I was able to get most of my left side in it and it was almost a squeeze chimney (I'm pretty skinny). I toproped it again after I led it and used the face holds to the left of the crack near the top. They're huge! Fun! Oct 24, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
Although I didn't care much for this route, I should note that my 11-year-old son thought it was pretty fun. Oct 13, 2006