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Routes in P.A.'s Mother

Altar Boy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Archbishop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coed Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
E.B. Jeebies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exposed Cleavage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Hopes S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobnail Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mama's Boy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Invention S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pissant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R.R. Crossing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Throulin's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throulin's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tough Guy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Pinches to Paradise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 355 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jason Billings on Mar 31, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This route is a large off width crack. It is easy to get to any is a great climb. It's the perfect length as a warm-up route for the day. If you have the right cams protection is easy and the climbing is good.

Protection

Use cams between 2.5 and 4. Also placed a hex. There is a double-bolt anchor at the top and a good ledge to belay from.
Troy Rodgers
  5.8
Troy Rodgers  
  5.8
I have 2.5 to 3 Camalot sized hands. I didn't need to make any offwidth moves the entire route. Steep, well protected, and fun. Jun 4, 2017
Owen Witesman
Springville, UT
  5.8
Owen Witesman   Springville, UT
  5.8
As noted, some extension slings would be smart to TR this since the rings are behind the edge. Awkward, not much fun. Wouldn't climb again. Mar 22, 2014
ScowHound
  5.8
ScowHound  
  5.8
Great route --- climbed it twice --- more like a 5.8 in my opinon --- great pro. Aug 9, 2010
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.8
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.8
Fantastic little route. Arm jams, knee jams, gastons, hand jams, everything you could ask for in a climb, all on fantastic rock. There's even a great double pocket inside the crack you can get on. My favorite climb on this wall. Apr 16, 2010
Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah
  5.7
Christian "crisco" Burrell   PG, Utah
  5.7
Yes, there are some wide pods, but in between in perfect jamming. Great fun. Worth doing a bunch of times. Jul 13, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I climbed this for the first time today. I thought this route was awesome! Great jamming with some nice holds in and out of the crack. Seemed easier than some other Rock Canyon trad 5.7s (definitely felt easier than Main Crack on Ed and Terry). Thoroughly enjoyable.

I placed .75, 1, 2, 3, and 4 Camalots. I might have placed two #1s... Two bomber, stainless ring anchors are on top. I'd still recommend putting a shoulder-length sling on each one to help with rope drag if toproping.

Also, I wouldn't call this an offwidth. It's mostly bomber hand jams with great jugs around, too. It's not necessary to do any OW moves. Jul 2, 2009
Lee Jensen
  5.7
Lee Jensen  
  5.7
The anchor bolts have been replaced with chains. They are up about three feet higher then the previous "set". This makes for a really clean anchor since the rope no longer drags into the crack.

I placed Camalots 4, 3, 2, and 1, with a couple of ~3/4 inch pieces down low. May 21, 2007
Chuck
Columbus, GA
  5.7
Chuck   Columbus, GA
  5.7
To top rope this one, It's a little skechy getting to the anchor. You may want to do a short rappel down. Bring webbing to extend anchor over the lip. You can back the anchor up with a 10' piece of webing around a large horn at the top. Apr 24, 2006
Lee Jensen
  5.7
Lee Jensen  
  5.7
There is only one bloted chain at the top of this route. While it seems fairly solid it does look like it has been through quite a few seasons of weather and use. The crack is wide, but not off width. 2 - 4" pieces protect it well. May 17, 2005