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Routes in P.A.'s Mother

Altar Boy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Archbishop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coed Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
E.B. Jeebies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exposed Cleavage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Hopes S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobnail Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mama's Boy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Invention S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pissant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R.R. Crossing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Throulin's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throulin's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tough Guy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Pinches to Paradise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Christian Knight and Aaron Child
Page Views: 679 total, 8/month
Shared By: Christian Knight on Jun 23, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This route climbs a great slab with some very tricky gear but straightforward moves, then attacks a cruxy roof to gain the anchor.

Location

Climbs the fairly blank slab to the right of Co-Ed Crack and finishes right of Archbishop.

Protection

4 bolts plus medium to large nuts and a few small cams.

Photos

Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.10c R
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.10c R
The main slab before the overhang is great, fun, balancy climbing that is really enjoyable. Not particularly difficult, but not as straightforward as it looks from the bottom.

The top overhung part is deceptive. It looks like there are plenty of good, positive holds, but when you're feeling around up there, the edges are surprisingly slopey.

I also agree that it was definitely an R rated climb. I followed and noticed only two possible gear placement (which Tristan used), neither of which were exactly bomber, and there is an enormous (25 ft?) runout between the first and second bolt. The climbing on that runout is not particularly scary, but a slip near the top would result in a broken ankle.

Overall, a really fun climb, a cool change of pace when you get from the not very steep but balancy slab, to the more physical burly section at the top. Sep 28, 2010
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.10b/c R
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.10b/c R
Pretty cool climb, guys! I enjoyed the great slab part. It was more fun than I thought it would be. The upper part was hard, felt harder than 5.10a. The steep, upper part is really hard to read; the holds aren't obvious and everything looks the same and like it might come off if you pull too hard on it.

Felt pretty R rated to me. I didn't get any pro in between the first and second bolts, and placed a couple pieces (green Camalot and red WC Zero) before the first bolt but still pretty high off the ground. I enjoyed the route, though. Thanks! Sep 27, 2010