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Routes in P.A.'s Mother

Altar Boy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Archbishop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coed Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
E.B. Jeebies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exposed Cleavage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Hopes S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobnail Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mama's Boy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Invention S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pissant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R.R. Crossing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Throulin's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throulin's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tough Guy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Pinches to Paradise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 144 total, 1/month
Shared By: Joey Faust on May 11, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

Be ready for lots of small holds, good luck finding them. Lots of crimpers, broken small cracks and a few small undercircles. Some small loose rock and lichen in a few places. Starts out easy and then bam and stays that way the rest of the route. A few bigger holds near the top.

Location

The route starts in between the arete and main crack (Regular Route) on the face. Rappel off anchors.

Protection

6 bolts and 2 bolts with rappel rings for the anchors. Long slings or cordelette helps to extend the anchors.

Photos

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Steven Jones
  5.10d
Steven Jones  
  5.10d
I liked this climb a lot more than I thought I would to be honest. The holds were all there (unlike some other slab climbs in Rock Canyon that are only graded above a 5.7 because of big blank spots), the crux pulling over the small roof and immediately after was fun and decently protected, and the rock quality was very much on par for Rock Canyon. It thought it was fine for the grade, maybe a hair soft, but who cares.

Also if anyones curious, the beta photo seems to show High Hopes and this route sharing chains. This is no longer the case. There are new(ish) chains for High Hopes right above the last bolt and this one still uses the same rap rings. However, it would be very easy to climb High Hopes (a pretty soft 5.7), climb about 6 feet past the anchors, and set up a toprope on this one. May 10, 2016
Tim Moore
  5.10d
Tim Moore  
  5.10d
Good fun route. Very small holds and bad bad feet especially right below the roof/overhung part. The bolts are close together which helps out a ton. Pretty much no possibility of eatin shizzzzz. Pretty solid 10d for the most part Mar 16, 2014
Good stuff. It felt like a solid 10d to me, but I was climbing mostly to the left of the bolts. Tristan mentioned some holds to the right that I may not have noticed while climbing. I had to hunt around for holds a bit. May 3, 2012
BJB
Texas
  5.10d
BJB   Texas
  5.10d
I don't think I've ever seen more disagreement about the rating of a route, but for what it's worth, I felt like it was a good bit harder than Pissant, the 10b on the northern end of the wall. I couldn't really find any great rests, and the footholds going through the roof were pretty precarious. Clipping the bolt right after the roof without falling off the wall was the crux of the climb for me. I'm glad I managed it too because a fall while clipping there could maybe put you on the ground. Mar 6, 2012
Tyson Taylor
  5.10d
Tyson Taylor  
  5.10d
The crux is early on and on par for the grade, but it eases up after. I felt a lose right hand-hold a move or to from the top, though it stayed in place. Jun 17, 2011
Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah
  5.10c
Christian "crisco" Burrell   PG, Utah
  5.10c
I have relearned to not always trust the previously chalked holds. I finally figured a good sequence that used some un-chalked holds. Keep up your momentum at the bottom and you can get to a good rest after bolt 4. Jul 13, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.10b
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.10b
I haven't been climbing anything very hard recently so I'm in pretty bad shape, but this route didn't seem anywhere near 5.11 to me. Felt a ton easier than Tough Guy (the other 10d a few routes to the left). If it was you guys that chalked up all the holds real pretty, you missed some good ones right of the third (?) bolt. Maybe that would make it feel more like 5.10?

Fun route, definitely worth climbing. The roof and the part after felt like the crux but it still stays in the 5.9 range after that. Jul 13, 2009