E.B. Jeebies

I haven't been climbing anything very hard recently so I'm in pretty bad shape, but this route didn't seem anywhere near 5.11 to me. Felt a ton easier than Tough Guy (the other 10d a few routes to the left). If it was you guys that chalked up all the holds real pretty, you missed some good ones right of the third (?) bolt. Maybe that would make it feel more like 5.10?

Fun route, definitely worth climbing. The roof and the part after felt like the crux but it still stays in the 5.9 range after that. Jul 13, 2009

I have relearned to not always trust the previously chalked holds. I finally figured a good sequence that used some un-chalked holds. Keep up your momentum at the bottom and you can get to a good rest after bolt 4. Jul 13, 2009

The crux is early on and on par for the grade, but it eases up after. I felt a lose right hand-hold a move or to from the top, though it stayed in place. Jun 17, 2011

I don't think I've ever seen more disagreement about the rating of a route, but for what it's worth, I felt like it was a good bit harder than Pissant, the 10b on the northern end of the wall. I couldn't really find any great rests, and the footholds going through the roof were pretty precarious. Clipping the bolt right after the roof without falling off the wall was the crux of the climb for me. I'm glad I managed it too because a fall while clipping there could maybe put you on the ground. Mar 6, 2012

Good stuff. It felt like a solid 10d to me, but I was climbing mostly to the left of the bolts. Tristan mentioned some holds to the right that I may not have noticed while climbing. I had to hunt around for holds a bit. May 3, 2012

Good fun route. Very small holds and bad bad feet especially right below the roof/overhung part. The bolts are close together which helps out a ton. Pretty much no possibility of eatin shizzzzz. Pretty solid 10d for the most part Mar 16, 2014

I liked this climb a lot more than I thought I would to be honest. The holds were all there (unlike some other slab climbs in Rock Canyon that are only graded above a 5.7 because of big blank spots), the crux pulling over the small roof and immediately after was fun and decently protected, and the rock quality was very much on par for Rock Canyon. It thought it was fine for the grade, maybe a hair soft, but who cares.

Also if anyones curious, the beta photo seems to show High Hopes and this route sharing chains. This is no longer the case. There are new(ish) chains for High Hopes right above the last bolt and this one still uses the same rap rings. However, it would be very easy to climb High Hopes (a pretty soft 5.7), climb about 6 feet past the anchors, and set up a toprope on this one. May 10, 2016