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Routes in PA's Mother

Altar Boy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Archbishop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coed Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
E.B. Jeebies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exposed Cleavage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Hopes S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobnail Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ladybait T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mama's Boy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Invention S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pissant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R.R. Crossing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regular Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Throulin's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throulin's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tough Guy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Pinches to Paradise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Description [Suggest Change]

This rock is just past the green gate, on the north side of the creek, where the canyon narrows. The face has a chimney with an obvious crack to the right. The approach is easy and it offers a few good routes both trad and sport. All routes allow for a single rope rappel or walk off.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

About a hundred or so feet past the second, green Rock Canyon gate look for a couple of logs crossing the stream bed at some concrete structures. If the water is running cross here; if no water (most of the year) go another fifty feet or so and cross the stream bed. You'll see a clearing ahead of you with an obvious trail leading north on the far side of the clearing. Take this trail which then turns right and deposits you at The Appendage.

Walk east past The Appendage and pick up the
Approach for P.A.'s Mother. Use the trail from [[105739845]] rather than slogging up the heinous talus directly below P.A.'s. across the talus just east of the The Appendage. Follow this trail to the base of P.A.'s Mother.

Note that the trail from The Appendage to P.A.'s Mother is new as of May 2007; use it rather than the old, nasty slog up the talus directly below P.A.'s Mother.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at PA's Mother

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 67
Quality
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 85
Exposed Cleavage
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 5
Altar Boy
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Quality
 67
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Exposed Cleavage
 85
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Altar Boy
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport
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Photos

This is probably one of my favorite areas in Rock Canyon. It's close, not very difficult approach, and good shade in the morning. The rock has a nice feel, better than the pokey quartzite/tillite of areas like Layer Cake and the Jobsite. It's a great place for a group of almost any skill, with such a range of difficulties. They can be a little tricky for their rating, but that's also what makes them interesting. Also, the description doesn't mention that the climb up the talus isn't so bad since a metal cable has been laid down (I don't know when). I didn't even know I had been doing the approach wrong the past couple of years. Aug 6, 2015

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Guidebooks (9)
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