Mountain Project Logo

Routes in P.A.'s Mother

Altar Boy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Archbishop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coed Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
E.B. Jeebies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exposed Cleavage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Hopes S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobnail Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mama's Boy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Invention S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pissant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R.R. Crossing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Throulin's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throulin's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tough Guy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Pinches to Paradise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jim Knight
Page Views: 3,138 total, 25/month
Shared By: keredea on Aug 8, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


86 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The crux is definitely the chimney at the beginning. It's hard to find a hold, but they are there. After that it is pretty easy with a little stemming depending on your style and some micro-edging if you want to challenge yourself a bit.

Location

This route is the chimney right next to the roof that faces west on the main face. See the picture for approximate bolt and anchor positions as well as the route itself.

Protection

Six bolts to 2 new hanger and ring anchors at the top. The first bolt is pretty scary as you will fall a lot if you're not steady on your feet and stay into the wall. The second is a bit crazy as well, as the wall pushes you away and there are few handholds in the chimney. From there the rest are pretty straightforward.

Please remember to rap down or use a bail-biner as the anchors are new!

Photos

Eli Peterson
Orem
  5.9+
Eli Peterson   Orem
  5.9+
Don't know if I just climbed it wrong and used all the wrong holds but it felt more difficult than a 5.8 Jul 12, 2015
Canyon Copa  
 
The chimney section is fun and different, definitely the crux for me. First timers will have a little trouble with the technique in the chimney, but can do it with some guidance. Jun 1, 2012
BJB
Texas
  5.10-
BJB   Texas
  5.10-
I'm with David, the 2nd bolt isnt that hard to get to, but the features on the slaby part of the climb are pretty tough. I thought they were a little too spaced and too thin for the 5.8 grade. Aug 2, 2011
David Hamblin
5.10- PG13
David Hamblin  
5.10- PG13
A few people say the 2nd bolt is the crux, but, there is a hold 2 feet above the first draw in the huge crack. You can place your hand on the top of this fist size hold, but, if you grab onto it side hold style you can use you leverage to swing out and upward. ( with your left foot on the left wall as high as you can place it also) I rate this route a 5 10. It is extemely slabby and drawn out near the top. It could use one more bolt between the 5th and 6th bolt. Take a fall after the 5th bolt and your looking at some pain. Nov 6, 2010
Christopher Miller  
  5.8+
Fun route! I agree that the crux is the second bolt, i kinda just jammed my whole shoulder in the chimney to clip it...never used a full body jam before. Well worth doing though! Aug 14, 2009
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
 
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
 
I went up with the friend of mine that got me into climbing. I thought this would be a cake walk at 5.8. As I was climbing, I felt like I should reevaluate my climbing capability. The chimney was fun but definitely the crux but I sure loved the exposure up high. It was more than what I was expecting (very deceiving). Getting to the first bolt is a little scary though (DON'T FALL!). Nov 15, 2008
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.9
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.9
I thought this climb was really fun. I agree the crux is probably getting to the second bolt, it's a bit of a toughie. I actually thought in some ways this climb was harder to follow than to lead for some reason. It gets kind of chossy when you get past the big crack with a few plants, and my climbing partner actually got stung by one of the many hornets buzzing around there, but it was a really fun climb. I think it's harder than just a 5.8(5.8+ or 5.9 I thought) but maybe it's just because I'm not very good. Would not be a good climb to start leading on, as that first bolt is a little nerve wracking. Sep 7, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.8
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.8
I think the crux for me was in the chimney part near the bottom of the climb. Fun climb. Mostly good holds. Airy near the top. Mar 26, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Added correct name and FA info per Darren Knezek. Dec 11, 2007