Avg: 2.3 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Joanne & Jorge Urioste, Kevin Campbell|
|Page Views:||2,634 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||Larry DeAngelo on Jun 23, 2008|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis route has also been known as "Sweet Crude."
Pitch 1: Climb the chimney and corner to a sloping belay stance below a bulge. (5.8, 120)
Pitch 2: An exposed diagonal traverse leads up and left through the bulge, with lots of air below, but good pro. When youre back in balance, a sloping traverse leads left about 30 feet. Now go straight up a steep jamcrack to a roomy ledge. (5.9, 110)
Pitch 3: Poorly protected face climbing for 30 feet leads to a chimney, which is followed by moderate moves up the continuing crack system, to a comfortable ledge where the crack system splits. (5.8, 190)
Pitch 4: After an exposed move right, jam a steep crack for 20 feet. About thirty feet of exposed, varnished face lead right and up to the base of a prominent, black, left-facing corner, where a hanging belay is established. (5.9, 70)
Pitch 5: Climb straight up the face and corner, then up easier terrain to a belay ledge. (5.8, 160)
Pitch 6: 200 feet of class 4 lead to the unroping spot.
Descent: Go west towards the Brownstone Wall, staying low across the slabs, then descend Juniper Canyon.