All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Juniper Canyon > Jackrabbit Buttress

Smooth Operator

Name: Smooth Operator
Rating: 2.7

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Jackrabbit Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arch Angel, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Black Pearl, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Blind Spot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Buffon's Needle Problem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cherub, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chimney Cricket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cottontail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crazy Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Degunker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Don't Touch That in Front of Grandma T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Ernest Stemmingway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Exorcising My Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Geronimo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Gigglenut Rampage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Idiocy of an Odyssey T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Juggernaut T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Larry's Leftovers (aka How Did I Get So Lucky) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Make Me an Angel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Minerva, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Myster Z T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mz. Why T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nelson Miles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Quality Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rabbit Stew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rose Hips T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Saddle Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	SD Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Senior Discount T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Smooth Operator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Stuffed Animals on Prozac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Swine Tasting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tan Clam T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	36.11526, -115.48953
FA:	Joanne Urioste, Jorge Urioste, and Kevin Campbell, Jun 2008
Page Views:	5,583 total · 26/month
Shared By:	Larry DeAngelo on Jun 23, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

This route has also been known as "Sweet Crude."

Pitch 1: Climb the chimney and corner to a sloping belay stance below a bulge. (5.8, 120’)

Pitch 2: An exposed diagonal traverse leads up and left through the bulge, with lots of air below, but good pro. When you’re back in balance, a sloping traverse leads left about 30 feet. Now go straight up a steep jamcrack to a roomy ledge. (5.9, 110’)

Pitch 3: Poorly protected face climbing for 30 feet leads to a chimney, which is followed by moderate moves up the continuing crack system, to a comfortable ledge where the crack system splits. (5.6, 180’)

Pitch 4: After an exposed move right, jam a steep crack for 20 feet. About thirty feet of exposed, varnished face lead right and up to the base of a prominent, black, left-facing corner, where a hanging belay is established. (5.9, 70’)

Pitch 5: Climb straight up the face and corner, then up easier terrain to a belay ledge. (5.8, 90’)

Pitch 6: 200 feet of easy 5th class to an unroping spot, then some 3rd class scrambling unroped.

Descent: Go west towards the Brownstone Wall, staying low across the slabs, then descend Juniper Canyon.

Location

This route ascends the Jackrabbit Buttress, starting in a corner about 100 feet left of Ernest Stemmingway. To reach the start of the climb, one may go uphill along the base of the cliff from ES, or go halfway up the steep dirt portion of the Juniper Canyon approach trail before cutting back toward the base of the cliff. Both ways are brushy.