Type: Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Joanne & Jorge Urioste, Kevin Campbell
Page Views: 2,975 total · 23/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Jun 23, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route has also been known as "Sweet Crude."

Pitch 1: Climb the chimney and corner to a sloping belay stance below a bulge. (5.8, 120’)

Pitch 2: An exposed diagonal traverse leads up and left through the bulge, with lots of air below, but good pro. When you’re back in balance, a sloping traverse leads left about 30 feet. Now go straight up a steep jamcrack to a roomy ledge. (5.9, 110’)

Pitch 3: Poorly protected face climbing for 30 feet leads to a chimney, which is followed by moderate moves up the continuing crack system, to a comfortable ledge where the crack system splits. (5.8, 190’)

Pitch 4: After an exposed move right, jam a steep crack for 20 feet. About thirty feet of exposed, varnished face lead right and up to the base of a prominent, black, left-facing corner, where a hanging belay is established. (5.9, 70’)

Pitch 5: Climb straight up the face and corner, then up easier terrain to a belay ledge. (5.8, 160’)

Pitch 6: 200 feet of class 4 lead to the unroping spot.

Descent: Go west towards the Brownstone Wall, staying low across the slabs, then descend Juniper Canyon.

Location

This route ascends the Jackrabbit Buttress, starting in a corner about 100 feet left of Ernest Stemmingway. To reach the start of the climb, one may go uphill along the base of the cliff from ES, or go halfway up the steep dirt portion of the Juniper Canyon approach trail before cutting back toward the base of the cliff. Both ways are brushy.

Protection

A standard rack up to a 3 or 4 inch cam.
Smooth Operator is probably the most straight foward of the climbs left of Myster Z if gaining the top of Jackrabbit Buttress is the objective (as a climbing start to reach the Brownstone Wall). Pitches 1-5 can be done in 3 pitches, though doing so requires some attention to rope drag. Double 60s will (barely) bring you back to the canyon floor from the top of pitch 5 in two bolted rappels. It is easy to toss the ropes into an unseen, rope-eating crack from the anchor at the top of pitch 5. Hmm. And now a new crop of bolts has appeared (Nov/Dec 2014) to link a line to the left of Smooth Operator... Nov 30, 2014
Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
Carl Schaefer   Boulder, CO
This is a good, not great, route...

Moderate bushwhacking is required to get to the base. Follow the canyon until slightly up-canyon of the route, then quest right and slightly down.

The first few pitches seemed to me to be:

p1 is 105' of 5.6
p2 is 80' of 5.7 pg13 due to poor rock quality for gear, ending at bolts (no rings)
p3 is 170' of 5.5, belay on a small ledge just below and right of the big ledge, but directly under the start of p4

After that we got off-route, but saw a bolted anchor at the top of p4.

To descend, walk left on flattish ground below the summit, aiming for a natural cairn of large bounders. After passing that, man-made cairns will be visible, leading you to the Brownstone wall descent through the canyon Oct 20, 2018