All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > 11-Juniper Canyon > Jackrabbit Buttress

Smooth Operator

Name: Smooth Operator
Rating: 2.7

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Jackrabbit Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black Pearl, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Blind Spot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Buffon's Needle Problem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chimney Cricket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cottontail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crazy Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Degunker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Don't Touch That in Front of Grandma T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Ernest Stemmingway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Geronimo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Gigglenut Rampage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Idiocy of an Odyssey T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Juggernaut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Minerva, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	MysterZ T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mz. Why T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nelson Miles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rabbit Stew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rose Hips T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Saddle Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	SD Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Senior Discount T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Smooth Operator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Stuffed Animals on Prozac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Swine Tasting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tan Clam T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
FA:	Joanne & Jorge Urioste, Kevin Campbell
Page Views:	4,671 total · 26/month
Shared By:	Larry DeAngelo on Jun 23, 2008
Admins:	Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

This route has also been known as "Sweet Crude."

Pitch 1: Climb the chimney and corner to a sloping belay stance below a bulge. (5.8, 120)

Pitch 2: An exposed diagonal traverse leads up and left through the bulge, with lots of air below, but good pro. When youre back in balance, a sloping traverse leads left about 30 feet. Now go straight up a steep jamcrack to a roomy ledge. (5.9, 110)

Pitch 3: Poorly protected face climbing for 30 feet leads to a chimney, which is followed by moderate moves up the continuing crack system, to a comfortable ledge where the crack system splits. (5.8, 190)

Pitch 4: After an exposed move right, jam a steep crack for 20 feet. About thirty feet of exposed, varnished face lead right and up to the base of a prominent, black, left-facing corner, where a hanging belay is established. (5.9, 70)

Pitch 5: Climb straight up the face and corner, then up easier terrain to a belay ledge. (5.8, 160)

Pitch 6: 200 feet of class 4 lead to the unroping spot.

Descent: Go west towards the Brownstone Wall, staying low across the slabs, then descend Juniper Canyon.

Location

This route ascends the Jackrabbit Buttress, starting in a corner about 100 feet left of Ernest Stemmingway. To reach the start of the climb, one may go uphill along the base of the cliff from ES, or go halfway up the steep dirt portion of the Juniper Canyon approach trail before cutting back toward the base of the cliff. Both ways are brushy.