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Suggested Page Improvements to Smooth Operator


Kevin Heckeler
Nov 5, 2023
Description Suggestion

This route has also been known as "Sweet Crude."


Pitch 1: Climb the chimney and corner to a sloping belay stance below a bulge. (5.8, 120’)


Pitch 2: An exposed diagonal traverse leads up and left through the bulge, with lots of air below, but good pro. When you’re back in balance, a sloping traverse leads left about 30 feet. Now go straight up a steep jamcrack to a roomy ledge. (5.9, 110’)


Pitch 3: Poorly protected face climbing for 30 feet leads to a chimney, which is followed by moderate moves up the continuing crack system, to a comfortable ledge where the crack system splits. (5.6, 180’)


Pitch 4: After an exposed move right, jam a steep crack for 20 feet. About thirty feet of exposed, varnished face lead right and up to the base of a prominent, black, left-facing corner, where a hanging belay is established. (5.9, 70’)


Pitch 5: Climb straight up the face and corner, then up easier terrain to a belay ledge. (5.8, 90’)


Pitch 6: 200 feet of easy 5th class to an unroping spot, then some 3rd class scrambling unroped.


Descent: Go west towards the Brownstone Wall, staying low across the slabs, then descend Juniper Canyon.


R J
Feb 10, 2025
First Ascent: Joanne & Jorge Urioste, Kevin Campbell 6/2008
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