The Black Pearl
Avg: 3.7 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft|
|FA:||FRA Larry DeAngelo, Karsten Duncan - March 31, 2008|
|Page Views:||6,560 total · 54/month|
|Shared By:||Karsten Duncan on Apr 3, 2008|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionIn this unassuming little nook lies one of the best cracks you'll find in the park. The Black Pearl is a classic old-school style testpiece. Superb ebony rock plus a variety of interesting moves and sizes make this one of the best single pitch routes you'll find. I would give it 6 stars if I could.
There are 2 crux sections but the climbing is fairly consistent the entire way. While much of the climbing is wider, the occasional face hold or foot makes the climb more elegant and varied but still a physical endeavor.
The climb lies almost directly across the canyon from the Cloud Tower route. Approach up trails as you would to access the brownstone or rainbow wall. As you enter the canyon there is a red-dirt trail that leads out of the wash going up the center of the canyon. Continue on this trail until you pass a large fallen pine on your right. Just after this pine cut rightward off the trail. Go down a grassy slope into a wash. Cross the wash and make your way into a dark recess. The Pearl is on the lefthand side of the recess.
UPDATE: Appears a bolted anchor has appeared but still requires a double rope rappel. Thanks Dylan Reynolds for info.
Protection1/2 set of nuts
Singles of small cams to #.75 camalot
Doubles from #1-#4 camalot
Optional #5 and #6 camalot
Natural belay anchors at top takes either a large cam or some finesse with nuts.
There is typically a long sling or rope that extends over the lip to allow for a smooth rappel over the edge. Notice comments below however that this area seems to be prone to rapid disentigration of webbing. Plan accordingly.