Type: Trad, 170 ft (52 m)
FA: FRA Larry DeAngelo, Karsten Duncan - March 31, 2008
Page Views: 9,018 total · 59/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Apr 3, 2008
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

In this unassuming little nook lies one of the best cracks you'll find in the park. The Black Pearl is a classic old-school style testpiece. Superb ebony rock plus a variety of interesting moves and sizes make this one of the best single pitch routes you'll find. I would give it 6 stars if I could.

There are 2 crux sections but the climbing is fairly consistent the entire way. While much of the climbing is wider, the occasional face hold or foot makes the climb more elegant and varied but still a physical endeavor.

Location

Approach:
The climb lies almost directly across the canyon from the Cloud Tower route. Approach up trails as you would to access the brownstone or rainbow wall. As you enter the canyon there is a red-dirt trail that leads out of the wash going up the center of the canyon. Continue on this trail until you pass a large fallen pine on your right. Just after this pine cut rightward off the trail. Go down a grassy slope into a wash. Cross the wash and make your way into a dark recess. The Pearl is on the lefthand side of the recess.

Descent:
UPDATE: Appears a bolted anchor has appeared but still requires a double rope rappel. Thanks Dylan Reynolds for info.

Protection

1/2 set of nuts
Singles of small cams to #.75 camalot
Doubles from #1-#4 camalot
Optional #5 and #6 camalot

Natural belay anchors at top takes either a large cam or some finesse with nuts.

There is typically a long sling or rope that extends over the lip to allow for a smooth rappel over the edge. Notice comments below however that this area seems to be prone to rapid disentigration of webbing. Plan accordingly.

Photos