Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||FRA Johnny Ray, Larry DeAngelo|
|Page Views:||647 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Larry DeAngelo on May 27, 2008|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionStart in the corridor behind the huge boulder immediately to the left of the Black Pearl recess. Follow the obvious chimney to where it turns into an offwidth at an overhang about twenty feet up. Squeeze past the bulge. Limited maneuvering room and restricted visibility make this the crux. Continue up the crack a short distance and belay. (There is probably enough rope to do the climb in a single pitch, but it is likely you have left your big cam down at the bulge and it will come in handy again up higher.)
Descend via rappel from the bushes at the west end of the ledge. From the current anchor position, the descent can be done with a single 60-meter rope and some downclimbing, or with two ropes.
LocationUse the same approach as for Black Pearl. Go up Juniper Canyon to the top of the steep section. As the canyon starts to level out, go right (north) into the streambed and follow this to the alcove where Black Pearl begins. A narrow corridor leads left to the prominent crack on the main face of the Black Pearl buttress.
Alternatively, approach from above while descending from one of the routes that tops out on the Jackrabbit Buttress.