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Routes in Jackrabbit Buttress

Black Pearl, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blind Spot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buffon's Needle Problem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cottontail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crazy Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Degunker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't Touch That in Front of Grandma T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ernest Stemmingway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geronimo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gigglenut Rampage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Idiocy of an Odyssey T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Juggernaut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Minerva, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MysterZ T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mz. Why T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nelson Miles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rose Hips T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
SD Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saddle Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Senior Discount T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smooth Operator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stuffed Animals on Prozac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swine Tasting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 5 pitches
FA: FRA: Jeff Johnson, Joanne Urioste
Page Views: 1,888 total, 16/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on May 27, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Start at the deep, varnished chimney. Climb the outer edge of the varnish, getting occasional protection with small wired nuts.

Pitch 2 continues up the crack system as it turns into a forbidding offwidth. Stemming holds and a big cam make this pitch more reasonable than it first appears. After the offwidth turns into a chimney, work out a belay where you can find good anchor potential.

Pitch 3 finishes the crack, then presents a choice. The easier route is to follow the left branch, which turns into a good ramp. The right branch leads to an offwidth grovel, then easier climbing.

Pitch 4: From the top of the ramp, go up easy slabs and cracks.

Pitch 5: easy climbing leads to the unroping spot.

Descend by walking west, toward the Brownstone Wall, then hike down Juniper Canyon.

Location

This route is on the south face of the Jackrabbit Buttress, a short distance upstream from Rose Hips. Hike into Juniper Canyon until you can thread a way through the boulders and brush to the base of the wall.

Protection

Std rack up to 6" cam
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
Be sure to stretch out before you head up this one. The route definitely lives up to its name!

The first two pitches are full-value fun on fantastic rock. Pitch 2 looks intimidating and improbable but go for it and you will be pleasantly surprised at how it unfolds. (Ample protection available in deep in slot, save a #4 or #5 for exit.) P1 150ft, P2 195ft.

For P3, after following the left-leaning crack 200ft to belay on the ramp, you can do one more 50ft pitch (5.6+?)traversing around the corner slightly lower and left to intersect the rap anchors on Smooth Operator(aka Sweet Crude). 2 double rope raps get you to the ground from here. Otherwise, from the belay on P3, head up and left for broken crack system leading to upper slabs and walk off via Brownstone Wall.

If it were longer, I'd give it three stars. Mar 14, 2014