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Ernest Stemmingway
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 25
votes
Routes in Jackrabbit Buttress
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Black Pearl, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blind Spot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Buffon's Needle Problem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chimney Cricket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cottontail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crazy Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Degunker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't Touch That in Front of Grandma T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Ernest Stemmingway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Geronimo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gigglenut Rampage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Idiocy of an Odyssey T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Juggernaut T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Larry's Leftovers (aka How Did I Get So Lucky) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Minerva, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Myster Z T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mz. Why T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nelson Miles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rabbit Stew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rose Hips T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Saddle Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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SD Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Senior Discount T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smooth Operator T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Stuffed Animals on Prozac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swine Tasting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tan Clam T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Jeff Johnson and Joanne Urioste, Mar 2008 |
| Page Views: | 5,254 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Larry DeAngelo on May 27, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Start at the deep, varnished chimney. Climb the outer edge of the varnish, getting occasional protection with small wired nuts.
Pitch 2 continues up the crack system as it turns into a forbidding offwidth. Stemming holds and a big cam make this pitch more reasonable than it first appears. After the offwidth turns into a chimney, work out a belay where you can find good anchor potential.
Pitch 3 finishes the crack, then presents a choice. The easier route is to follow the left branch, which turns into a good ramp. The right branch leads to an offwidth grovel, then easier climbing.
Pitch 4: From the top of the ramp, go up easy slabs and cracks.
Pitch 5: easy climbing leads to the unroping spot.
Descend by walking west, toward the Brownstone Wall, then hike down Juniper Canyon.
Pitch 2 continues up the crack system as it turns into a forbidding offwidth. Stemming holds and a big cam make this pitch more reasonable than it first appears. After the offwidth turns into a chimney, work out a belay where you can find good anchor potential.
Pitch 3 finishes the crack, then presents a choice. The easier route is to follow the left branch, which turns into a good ramp. The right branch leads to an offwidth grovel, then easier climbing.
Pitch 4: From the top of the ramp, go up easy slabs and cracks.
Pitch 5: easy climbing leads to the unroping spot.
Descend by walking west, toward the Brownstone Wall, then hike down Juniper Canyon.
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