All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Juniper Canyon > Jackrabbit Buttress

Ernest Stemmingway

Name: Ernest Stemmingway
Rating: 2.7

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Jackrabbit Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arch Angel, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Black Pearl, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Blind Spot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Buffon's Needle Problem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cherub, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chimney Cricket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cottontail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crazy Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Degunker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Don't Touch That in Front of Grandma T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Ernest Stemmingway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Exorcising My Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Geronimo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Gigglenut Rampage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Idiocy of an Odyssey T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Juggernaut T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Larry's Leftovers (aka How Did I Get So Lucky) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Make Me an Angel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Minerva, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Myster Z T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mz. Why T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nelson Miles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Quality Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rabbit Stew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rose Hips T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Saddle Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	SD Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Senior Discount T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Smooth Operator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Stuffed Animals on Prozac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Swine Tasting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tan Clam T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches
GPS:	36.11526, -115.48953
FA:	Jeff Johnson and Joanne Urioste, Mar 2008
Page Views:	5,550 total · 26/month
Shared By:	Larry DeAngelo on May 27, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

Start at the deep, varnished chimney. Climb the outer edge of the varnish, getting occasional protection with small wired nuts.

Pitch 2 continues up the crack system as it turns into a forbidding offwidth. Stemming holds and a big cam make this pitch more reasonable than it first appears. After the offwidth turns into a chimney, work out a belay where you can find good anchor potential.

Pitch 3 finishes the crack, then presents a choice. The easier route is to follow the left branch, which turns into a good ramp. The right branch leads to an offwidth grovel, then easier climbing.

Pitch 4: From the top of the ramp, go up easy slabs and cracks.

Pitch 5: easy climbing leads to the unroping spot.

Descend by walking west, toward the Brownstone Wall, then hike down Juniper Canyon.

Location

This route is on the south face of the Jackrabbit Buttress, a short distance upstream from Rose Hips. Hike into Juniper Canyon until you can thread a way through the boulders and brush to the base of the wall.