Idiocy of an Odyssey
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||an ascent, Jan 2015, DCuster & SRuff|
|Page Views:||301 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||dave custer on Jan 18, 2015|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionWandering line aside, much excellent climbing. If the final pitches were as accessible as Ragged Edges, they would have a following.
P1 Up the left facing corner; more difficult than it looks. Traverse left on the spacious ledge to the oak tree stance below a finger crack that leads to an overhanging fist crack. The #5 camalot crack to the left is an alternate start at the same grade. ~30 meters, 5.10-
P2 Up the finger then fist crack. Belay on the rubble stance or continue on P3. Alternatively, step left, through and on oak trees; step across chasm to huecos and up P3. ~10 meters, 5.10-
P3 Step down left, and traverse left to the next, wide crack system. Up this to a belay at a ledge and an oak tree. ~30 meters, 5.7.
P4 Up the corner on the left side of the gulley system above the oak tree to a thin crack that angles left below a black headwall (it is possible to stay right and continue up the gulley; beware the agave top-out). From the left end of the headwall, ascend directly up. At the top of the headwall, walk back 10 meters to belay in oak trees. ~50 meters, 5.7.
P5 Up the obvious, daunting black gash. ~40 meters, 5.8
Easy scrambling up and right with a move or two of down-climbing will gain the Geronimo rappel anchors.