Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: an ascent, Jan 2015, DCuster & SRuff
Page Views: 361 total · 8/month
Shared By: dave custer on Jan 18, 2015
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Wandering line aside, much excellent climbing. If the final pitches were as accessible as Ragged Edges, they would have a following.

P1 Up the left facing corner; more difficult than it looks. Traverse left on the spacious ledge to the oak tree stance below a finger crack that leads to an overhanging fist crack. The #5 camalot crack to the left is an alternate start at the same grade. ~30 meters, 5.10-

P2 Up the finger then fist crack. Belay on the rubble stance or continue on P3. Alternatively, step left, through and on oak trees; step across chasm to huecos and up P3. ~10 meters, 5.10-

P3 Step down left, and traverse left to the next, wide crack system. Up this to a belay at a ledge and an oak tree. ~30 meters, 5.7.

P4 Up the corner on the left side of the gulley system above the oak tree to a thin crack that angles left below a black headwall (it is possible to stay right and continue up the gulley; beware the agave top-out). From the left end of the headwall, ascend directly up. At the top of the headwall, walk back 10 meters to belay in oak trees. ~50 meters, 5.7.

P5 Up the obvious, daunting black gash. ~40 meters, 5.8

Easy scrambling up and right with a move or two of down-climbing will gain the Geronimo rappel anchors.


Rope up on a stone platform below a narrow, left-facing corner up and left of the start to SD Slot. This is below and just right of a prominent, steep chimney system that splits the wall.


Normal rack to #4 camalot. A #5 might be considered desirable.


This climb is a lot more fun than it looks: we were continually surprised by the climbing. The initial pitches have two purposes: avoiding bushwhacking and taking a look at the offwidth below the obvious slings (the rock on the left wall of the offwidth is friable so the climbing looks hard!). The first pitches of Idiocy of an Odyssey have some merit, but the real pleasant surprise is the last two pitches. I'm biased: I like 3D climbing, and we didn't expect much from this climb so the surprises added to the pleasure. I hope others enjoy it too. Jan 18, 2015