Type: Trad, 135 ft (41 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 338 total · 25/month
Shared By: Mark Murphy on Dec 14, 2020
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The Black Pearl sits on the left wall of a magical alcove on Jackrabbit Buttress. The Pearl is the gem - great climbing on black bullet-hard, water polished stone. It is housed in a clamshell alcove of light brown rock that has been shaped by wind. Beneath a unique 'paint chip' layer, the rock is surprisingly hard and contains many interesting features. The juxtaposition of superficial dirtiness and the soul-deep core of quality climbing through awe inspiring features makes this climb a quandary of either 4 stars or bomb-terrible. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but so is that flake of rock you just knocked onto your belayer.

Start in the back corner, in a chimney with a hand and finger crack. Above this is a series of hanging blocks, each guarded by a tricky puzzle protected by solid gear. At the last block climb a thin, bouldery sequence or make worrying chimney moves to gain the roof above. Burrow into the roof and work left, protected by 2 bolts and big gear. Pull the roof into a stellar overhanging fist crack. Puzzling geometry makes for exciting moves to the anchor of Black Pearl. Save a 2, 3, and 4 for the final fist crack!

Location

This is the impressive corner to the right of Black Pearl.

Protection

Single rack .3 - 5, double .5, 2, 3, 4

Photos

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