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Routes in Jackrabbit Buttress

Black Pearl, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blind Spot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buffon's Needle Problem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cottontail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crazy Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Degunker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't Touch That in Front of Grandma T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ernest Stemmingway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geronimo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gigglenut Rampage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Idiocy of an Odyssey T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Juggernaut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Minerva, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MysterZ T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mz. Why T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nelson Miles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rose Hips T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
SD Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saddle Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Senior Discount T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smooth Operator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stuffed Animals on Prozac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swine Tasting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: FRA DCuster & SRuff, Jan 2014
Page Views: 496 total, 11/month
Shared By: dave custer on Jan 12, 2014
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Follow discontinuous cracks and huecos up to the right end of a black, varnished roof. Traverse left to the arête proper and pull through to discontinuous cracks and easier climbing on the arête and face above. From the (climber's) right side of the ledge system (where The Black Pearl tops out), climb up and right to the obvious crack. Follow it up and left ~ 60 feet, gaining 3rd/4th class rock. Angle up and left to a short, awkward finger/hand crack that leads to a wider crack and the short hike to the Jackrabbit buttress descent cairns.

Location

The arête between Blind Spot and The Black Pearl. Start 30 feet downhill from the Black Pearl. Descend pitch 1 by rappel from trees at (climber's) left end of ledge system; descend from the top via Jackrabbit Buttress walk off.

Protection

Nuts, doubles blue camalot jr. to blue camalot useful to gain the buttress top in one pitch. A few long slings may be in order to manage rope drag for the traverse below the varnished roof. A #5 camalot fits nicely in a hueco at the start of this traverse.

Photos

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
Red Rock is such an amazing place that routes like this can still be going up. So much fun and unclimbed rock to still be climbed there. Great job on seeing and going for this line. Looks like it was an adventure. Apr 24, 2014
This climb is 3 pitches of business, with an additional low-angle "pitch" (or move of belay) between pitches 2 and 3. At the top of the second pitch is a lovely huge alcove you could host a party in. This alcove holds the start of The Minerva. There are many possible exits from the alcove. The finger/hand crack mentioned above is one of the left-most possible exits and is the obvious exit if what you're looking for is a crack climb (as opposed to a face, corner, or traverse). I think that The Minerva is a more natural conclusion to this climb because the flavor of climbing (face/arete) is comparable to the first pitch of Swine Tasting Party. But if you're short on time, the crack exit described above has only one short crux, so is faster. Apr 22, 2014