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Routes in Jackrabbit Buttress

Black Pearl, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blind Spot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buffon's Needle Problem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cottontail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crazy Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Degunker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't Touch That in Front of Grandma T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ernest Stemmingway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geronimo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gigglenut Rampage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Idiocy of an Odyssey T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Juggernaut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Minerva, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MysterZ T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mz. Why T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nelson Miles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rose Hips T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
SD Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saddle Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Senior Discount T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smooth Operator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stuffed Animals on Prozac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swine Tasting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: an ascent by DCuster & SRuff, Jan 2015
Page Views: 205 total, 6/month
Shared By: dave custer on Jan 13, 2015
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Thought provoking climbing, finishing at the Geronimo summit block.

P1 Climb the pleasant, black, left side of the slot to easier ground and continue up yet another, narrower slot in black rock. Belay on a spacious sandstone ledge below a blocky chockstone in the next slot. 5.6, a short pitch, ~30 meters.
P2 Climb up past the blocky chockstone, place gear (yellow camalotish), consider your fate, and step left onto the black, varnished ramp. Tiptoe up the ramp; choose between the utility of tiny nuts and reprieve from burning calves. After about 1/3 of the ramp, a move gains some calf reprieve and a green alien placement. More gear and more calf pain gains the top of the Senior Discount pillar & perhaps a double rope rappel (25 foot sling around block?). 5.9, another short pitch, ~30+meters. The anchor at the top of Senior Discount takes .3-.75 Camalot Jrs.
P3 Make a move to gain the thin crack/corner system on the right. At the top of the corner, step left and weave up steep huecos and flakes. At a long, nearly horizontal crack in good, black rock, head back right to the poorly defined arête. Up easier climbing for a long ways with rare gear placements in pink rock near or left of the blunt arête, eventually finding ample enough gear to construct an anchor. 5.9, 60 meters; the anchor takes yellow camalot +/-.
P4 Up and right onto the face right of the arête, angle up and right into a crack system/variation of Geronimo. 5.5, a short pitch, ~30 meters.
P5 An exposed step right gains the face on the right and then Geronimo’s summit rap station. 5.5, a very short pitch, <30 meters.

Location

On the right side of the wide gully between Geronimo and Mr Z, start well below and right of the Senior Discount pillar at a black slot that is just left of a rounded hobbit alcove just off the ground.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot. Tiny nuts, purple & blue (0 & 1) metolius and green alien handy for the ramp. Nuts more than ordinarily useful for P3.

Photos

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