Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||an ascent by DCuster & SRuff, Jan 2015|
|Page Views:||213 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||dave custer on Jan 13, 2015|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThought provoking climbing, finishing at the Geronimo summit block.
P1 Climb the pleasant, black, left side of the slot to easier ground and continue up yet another, narrower slot in black rock. Belay on a spacious sandstone ledge below a blocky chockstone in the next slot. 5.6, a short pitch, ~30 meters.
P2 Climb up past the blocky chockstone, place gear (yellow camalotish), consider your fate, and step left onto the black, varnished ramp. Tiptoe up the ramp; choose between the utility of tiny nuts and reprieve from burning calves. After about 1/3 of the ramp, a move gains some calf reprieve and a green alien placement. More gear and more calf pain gains the top of the Senior Discount pillar & perhaps a double rope rappel (25 foot sling around block?). 5.9, another short pitch, ~30+meters. The anchor at the top of Senior Discount takes .3-.75 Camalot Jrs.
P3 Make a move to gain the thin crack/corner system on the right. At the top of the corner, step left and weave up steep huecos and flakes. At a long, nearly horizontal crack in good, black rock, head back right to the poorly defined arête. Up easier climbing for a long ways with rare gear placements in pink rock near or left of the blunt arête, eventually finding ample enough gear to construct an anchor. 5.9, 60 meters; the anchor takes yellow camalot +/-.
P4 Up and right onto the face right of the arête, angle up and right into a crack system/variation of Geronimo. 5.5, a short pitch, ~30 meters.
P5 An exposed step right gains the face on the right and then Geronimos summit rap station. 5.5, a very short pitch, <30 meters.