Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten, Paul "Obie" Obanhein 1983
Page Views: 2,736 total · 17/month
Shared By: Boneware on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

I can’t believe that I have walked by this route so many times and never noticed it before.
It is striking shallow left facing corner, which varies from tips to wide hands with lots of variety in between. Although rock quality is a little iffy in places, especially right off the ground (protects well with a #3 camalot) everywhere you really need it good solid pro can be found.

The anchor is OK, definatly not the best I have seen but I have also seen many worse. It could do with the bolts being replaced, and the webbing is looking a little faded. The fixed nut is bomber and there are a couple beiners to lower/rap off.

Juggernaut is no give me, the face to the left is amazingly smooth and the crack pinches down pretty tight at times. As mentioned above there is some questionable rock in places so place well and when you can get it.

A great way to end the day, often in the shade in the afternoon and is on your way out if you are up on Brownstone or Rainbow.

Location

Juggernaut is located on the main face of Jack Rabbit Buttress, if you are coming out of the canyon (returning to the car after being up on Brownstone or Rainbow Walls)on the main trail you will pass the Geronimo gully on your left, and the next fin of rock you come to will be the south end of the main Jack Rabbit Buttress. Take a faint trail here that branches off to the left from the main trail, and takes you north along the east face of Jack Rabbit Buttress, you will see Juggernaut as a nice little dark varnished left facing corner starting out of pink rock. There are 2 bushes either side of the start, and as of 11-20-06 there is blue webbing at the anchors at the top.

If you are coming from the parking lot for Pine creek the route will be on the left (south) end of the main Jack Rabbit Buttress just before you come to the Geronimo gully.

Protection

I had a single set from 00 C3 to #3 camalots, and a green and yellow alien, also a set of HB offsets #7-11 and a set of small BD nuts. I did not place the smallest 2 C3’s. I did use all the rest except only 2-3 HBs and a single small nut. I am a chicken though and doubled up some of the smaller pieces.

Photos