Juggernaut
5.10+,
Trad, 85 ft (26 m),
Avg: 2.9 from 15
votes
FA: Paul Van Betten, Paul "Obie" Obanhein 1983
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (11) Juniper Ca…
> Jackrabbit Buttress
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
I cant believe that I have walked by this route so many times and never noticed it before.
It is striking shallow left facing corner, which varies from tips to wide hands with lots of variety in between. Although rock quality is a little iffy in places, especially right off the ground (protects well with a #3 camalot) everywhere you really need it good solid pro can be found.
The anchor is OK, definatly not the best I have seen but I have also seen many worse. It could do with the bolts being replaced, and the webbing is looking a little faded. The fixed nut is bomber and there are a couple beiners to lower/rap off.
Juggernaut is no give me, the face to the left is amazingly smooth and the crack pinches down pretty tight at times. As mentioned above there is some questionable rock in places so place well and when you can get it.
A great way to end the day, often in the shade in the afternoon and is on your way out if you are up on Brownstone or Rainbow.
Location
Juggernaut is located on the main face of Jack Rabbit Buttress, if you are coming out of the canyon (returning to the car after being up on Brownstone or Rainbow Walls)on the main trail you will pass the Geronimo gully on your left, and the next fin of rock you come to will be the south end of the main Jack Rabbit Buttress. Take a faint trail here that branches off to the left from the main trail, and takes you north along the east face of Jack Rabbit Buttress, you will see Juggernaut as a nice little dark varnished left facing corner starting out of pink rock. There are 2 bushes either side of the start, and as of 11-20-06 there is blue webbing at the anchors at the top.
If you are coming from the parking lot for Pine creek the route will be on the left (south) end of the main Jack Rabbit Buttress just before you come to the Geronimo gully.
Protection
I had a single set from 00 C3 to #3 camalots, and a green and yellow alien, also a set of HB offsets #7-11 and a set of small BD nuts. I did not place the smallest 2 C3s. I did use all the rest except only 2-3 HBs and a single small nut. I am a chicken though and doubled up some of the smaller pieces.
![This shot is taken standing on the approach trail. Juggernaut is shown in green. Red shows Geronimo which starts in the next gully to the west.]()
[Hide Photo] This shot is taken standing on the approach trail. Juggernaut is shown in green. Red shows Geronimo which starts in the next gully to the west.
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One of the bolts was a poor 1/4" USE Diamond Taper with a good hanger, the other was a good 3/8" split-shaft with Leeper hanger. Unfortunately, the threads were damaged so replacing the hanger was not a good idea. We pulled the 1/4" and reused the hole, then drilled a new hole for the second bolt. Since the thread-damaged 3/8" is tucked away in the corner, pulling it without damaging the rock is next to impossible, so the hangerless stud is still there.
We didn't have rap rings & quicklinks, those need to be added (there's now a black sling and 2 biners at the anchor). Mar 14, 2008
Sacramento, CA
This route needs stars in the next edition! Mar 26, 2008
Las Vegas
I'm also curious what the line to the left is, which has two moves with extra-tiny crimps at the bolt. I could not pull the thin moves and yarded on a draw to get past them, so I cannot comment on overall difficulty, but the rest of the climbing is 10a-ish. Mar 5, 2020
Las Vegas, NV
The route to the left is supposed to go at 11d but seems a good bit harder. Maybe something broke off in the blank section at the bolt? The 35 ft of finger crack at the top is pure fun though Nov 12, 2020