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Routes in West Side

Anti-Venom T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Baby Seal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Barracuda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beach Blanket Bingo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beer Snake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Douglas, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Juju T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BlackzillaH S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bocephus T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bro Job S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bronzing S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Brotherhood, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Caligula S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Can I Borrow Some Draws? S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack and Shatter S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Credit Card S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Darkstar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Die-Agonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dopeman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ebonics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
French Kissing The Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Frequency S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Grey Matter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanging Judge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Has Bro S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
He Bro S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hot Chocolate T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
I Feel So Funky S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Kingsnake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Boys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lemongello T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Om Sweet Om S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orangello S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Perfection Project S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Picture Me Rollin' S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Pirates of the Carabiner S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Real Big Kung Fu S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sandstoner, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Saturday the 14th T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sh'ash Nizhitl (The Bear that is Brown) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
She Bro S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slap My Fro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slim Shady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stick It T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Throw Down the Gauntlet S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Valley Girl S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vanilla Voodoo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Winsloner, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tim Coats, Jim Haisley
Page Views: 4,479 total · 35/month
Shared By: Mike on Jun 8, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Description

Awesome clean crack in a corner that starts hands and gradually widens to fists (offwidth for small hands?)up high. An excellent pitch! Much of the climb is wide hands & cups for me, so those with small hands may find themselves doing lots of fist jams.

Location

Obvious beautiful corner crack downstream a bit on the West Wall, the next corner past Bro Job, and just before Shady Grove.

Protection

In Camalot sizes I suggest 1 #1, 2 #2, 3-5 #3, plus a #4 Friend for the last bit. YMMV.

Photos

Cool route! Pumpy fists at the crux. Yowza. Bring a few #3.5 camalots or #4 friends. Aug 10, 2008
max gibbons
AZ y TO
max gibbons   AZ y TO
That crack coulda been 90 feet longer and I wouldn't have minded one bit. Patina rivals most Indian Creek lines. Stellar. Apr 26, 2009
Mike
Phoenix
  5.10c
Mike   Phoenix
  5.10c
Max you are in luck, this crack DOES continue up past the first pitch, through a fist/offwidth roof to a second set of anchors. However, the second pitch is rarely done and the current state of the anchors is unknown. Jun 14, 2009
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
love this crack!!! Do the "ring of power" when it gets wide... Aug 25, 2010
I am not sure about this, but Tim Coats and Jim Haisley come to mind as the FA party. Sep 2, 2010
Great route, in-between hand/fist size people may want to layback towards the top. First anchor is back in a cave a bit, two drilled pitons with chains. May 28, 2012
TarzanR6
Las Vegas Nevada
TarzanR6   Las Vegas Nevada
Get those off-hands going! Sep 30, 2013
Derek Field
California
  5.10a
Derek Field   California
  5.10a
As good as it gets! Clean, straight-in jamming up an extremely aesthetic corner. Don't need so many #3's as listed above. I only placed one. YMMV, but I think an appropriate rack would be doubles of 1, 2 and 3 camalot (new sizes) with a single #4 for the last part. Sep 15, 2017
Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Rad pitch. I think I placed 2 #1, a single #2, and several #3. Had a #4 but didn't place because I was praying that it would protect the heinous overhanging offwidth looking thing that I thought I might be climbing. Luckily the pitch ends before that! Seems shorter than 90 feet, but don't quote me on that. Aug 5, 2018

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