Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tim Coats, Jim Haisley
Page Views: 4,519 total · 35/month
Shared By: Mike on Jun 8, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Description

Awesome clean crack in a corner that starts hands and gradually widens to fists (offwidth for small hands?)up high. An excellent pitch! Much of the climb is wide hands & cups for me, so those with small hands may find themselves doing lots of fist jams.

Location

Obvious beautiful corner crack downstream a bit on the West Wall, the next corner past Bro Job, and just before Shady Grove.

Protection

In Camalot sizes I suggest 1 #1, 2 #2, 3-5 #3, plus a #4 Friend for the last bit. YMMV.

Photos

Cool route! Pumpy fists at the crux. Yowza. Bring a few #3.5 camalots or #4 friends. Aug 10, 2008
max gibbons
AZ y TO
max gibbons   AZ y TO
That crack coulda been 90 feet longer and I wouldn't have minded one bit. Patina rivals most Indian Creek lines. Stellar. Apr 26, 2009
Mike
Phoenix
  5.10c
Mike   Phoenix
  5.10c
Max you are in luck, this crack DOES continue up past the first pitch, through a fist/offwidth roof to a second set of anchors. However, the second pitch is rarely done and the current state of the anchors is unknown. Jun 14, 2009
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
love this crack!!! Do the "ring of power" when it gets wide... Aug 25, 2010
I am not sure about this, but Tim Coats and Jim Haisley come to mind as the FA party. Sep 2, 2010
Great route, in-between hand/fist size people may want to layback towards the top. First anchor is back in a cave a bit, two drilled pitons with chains. May 28, 2012
TarzanR6
Las Vegas Nevada
TarzanR6   Las Vegas Nevada
Get those off-hands going! Sep 30, 2013
Derek Field
California
  5.10a
Derek Field   California
  5.10a
As good as it gets! Clean, straight-in jamming up an extremely aesthetic corner. Don't need so many #3's as listed above. I only placed one. YMMV, but I think an appropriate rack would be doubles of 1, 2 and 3 camalot (new sizes) with a single #4 for the last part. Sep 15, 2017
Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Rad pitch. I think I placed 2 #1, a single #2, and several #3. Had a #4 but didn't place because I was praying that it would protect the heinous overhanging offwidth looking thing that I thought I might be climbing. Luckily the pitch ends before that! Seems shorter than 90 feet, but don't quote me on that. Aug 5, 2018