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Routes in West Side

Anti-Venom T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Baby Seal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Barracuda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beach Blanket Bingo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beer Snake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Douglas, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Juju T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BlackzillaH S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bocephus T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bro Job S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bronzing S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Brotherhood, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Caligula S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Can I Borrow Some Draws? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack and Shatter S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Credit Card S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Darkstar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Die-Agonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dopeman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ebonics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
French Kissing The Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Frequency S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Grey Matter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanging Judge, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Has Bro S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
He Bro S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hot Chocolate T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
I Feel So Funky S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Kingsnake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Boys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lemongello T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Om Sweet Om S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orangello S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Perfection Project S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Picture Me Rollin' S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Pirates of the Carabiner S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Real Big Kung Fu S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sandstoner, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Saturday the 14th T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sh'ash Nizhitl (The Bear that is Brown) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
She Bro S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slap My Fro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slim Shady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stick It T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Throw Down the Gauntlet S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Valley Girl S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vanilla Voodoo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Winsloner, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: D. Bloom, R. Blakemore
Page Views: 3,050 total · 25/month
Shared By: Mike on Jun 8, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

An excellent route up a rounded arete. Start just left of arete and climb past bolts to a move up & right near a roof crack. Some people skip the last bolt on the arete.

Location

On the West Wall across from the rappel gully, just before the big boulder.

Protection

Bolts & mussy hooks.

Photos

This has to be the most photogenic route at WW. Beautiful red rock Aug 10, 2008
Nice Tavis! So where is the photo? Hope you are well. Aug 12, 2008
Mike
Phoenix
 
Mike   Phoenix
 
For some reason I always struggle with this route and have yet to lead it anywhere near clean. Jun 14, 2009
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
  5.12-
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
  5.12-
@ Mike, that thing is not easy. Until you lock down the beta. Sep 15, 2010
RyanJames  
 
I understand that the person who bolted the route intended for the route to climb the arete. Well, it doesn't. Several bolts on this route are way, way too far to the left. In fact, I think it really takes away from the quality of the route. Oct 5, 2010
This is bolted quite well, intended for clean falls around the arete, albeit there's one un-needed bolt (2nd from the top I think, just after the crux). May 28, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Tall boy beta goes straight up the arête without getting sucked way right. Very few people do this cause the chalk gets washed away on these moves, but not on the holds to the right. Sometimes you got to think outside the chalk line. Aug 19, 2013
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Excellent climbing and beautiful all around but I wouldn't personally say it was well bolted (sorry not trying to anger anyone). Bolts are constantly out left around the arete so the rope could grab your foot if you fall. And you might not even see the second-to-last bolt if you're climbing the line. Mar 25, 2014

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