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Routes in West Side

Anti-Venom T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Baby Seal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Barracuda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beach Blanket Bingo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beer Snake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Douglas, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Juju T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BlackzillaH S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bocephus T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bro Job S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bronzing S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Brotherhood, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Caligula S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Crack and Shatter S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Darkstar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Die-Agonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dopeman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ebonics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
French Kissing The Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Grey Matter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanging Judge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Has Bro S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
He Bro S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hot Chocolate T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Kingsnake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Boys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lemongello T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Om Sweet Om S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orangello S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Picture Me Rollin' S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Real Big Kung Fu S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sandstoner, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Saturday the 14th T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sh'ash Nizhitl (The Bear that is Brown) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
She Bro S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slap My Fro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slim Shady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stick It T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Valley Girl S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vanilla Voodoo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Winsloner, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Flagstaff Oldschool
Page Views: 5,274 total, 54/month
Shared By: Mike on Nov 29, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Climbs obvious 'lightning bolt' offwidth in between the Winsloner & Valley Girl. Start in a nice handcrack that quickly gets wide. OW past a couple nice rests to the intermediate anchors on the right just after a short chimney section, which allow one to rap/TR with a single 70m rope. Or just continue to top & use 2 ropes. A nice line.

Location

Located downstream on the West Wall, just inside Shady Grove.

Protection

1 #2, 1 #3, 3-4 #4, & 2 #5 camalots. Add a few more cams and a #6 if you want to feel extra secure. Bolted rap anchor at 110', or continue to top.
Ethan Y
 
Ethan Y  
 
First route I jumped on at Winslow and so far my favorite! Did this last week with 1x2, 2x3's, 2x4's, 1x4.5. I was obviously run out at the end, but with several huge knee lock rests and other meat-squishing maneuvers, I felt secure moving to the chains. The rock quality in the last ten feet or so deteriorates a bit and there is a copious amount of loose clastic/organic material inside the crack. makes for an awesome adventure as the climber, but be mindful of your belayer. Sep 21, 2015
Tradiban
  5.10-
Tradiban  
  5.10-
I did this fairly safely with a rack of doubles up to C4 #5, a #1 down low then bigger stuff as you go higher. I leap frogged the 5s and slung a big chockstone near the top where a #6 would go.

A very blue collar route and harder than it looks. If you are into that sort of thing this is 4 stars. If not be prepared to suffer. Jun 25, 2012
JMo
Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
JMo   Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
Stellar. To REALLY sew this up: 2, 3, 3x4, 3x5, 3x6. Jun 11, 2012
RyanJames  
 
Darkstar is definitely one of the most aesthetic climbs in the canyon, for sure! Jan 28, 2012
J tot
Tempe, AZ
 
J tot   Tempe, AZ
 
I lead this with two 4's and a 5. It was pretty sketchy towards the top. I recommend at least two 5's and a 6. Jan 27, 2012
Sun2Stone Meyer
Phoenix,AZ
Sun2Stone Meyer   Phoenix,AZ
Followed after Nestors Lead. scraped my anckels alot, did the upper crux offwidth with a lay back above the block. Cm Sep 20, 2011
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
 
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
 
i had 4 #5's and a #6, 2 #4's, a #3 and a #2. It was perfect, I used every piece. This climb is SO great!!!!!! Love it! Sep 6, 2011