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Routes in West Side

Anti-Venom T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Baby Seal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Barracuda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beach Blanket Bingo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beer Snake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Douglas, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Juju T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BlackzillaH S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bocephus T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bro Job S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bronzing S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Brotherhood, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Caligula S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Can I Borrow Some Draws? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack and Shatter S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Credit Card S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Darkstar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Die-Agonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dopeman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ebonics S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
French Kissing The Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Frequency S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Grey Matter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanging Judge, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Has Bro S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
He Bro S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hot Chocolate T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
I Feel So Funky S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Kingsnake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Boys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lemongello T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Om Sweet Om S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orangello S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Perfection Project S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Picture Me Rollin' S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Pirates of the Carabiner S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Real Big Kung Fu S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sandstoner, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Saturday the 14th T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sh'ash Nizhitl (The Bear that is Brown) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
She Bro S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slap My Fro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slim Shady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stick It T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Throw Down the Gauntlet S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Valley Girl S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vanilla Voodoo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Winsloner, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Flagstaff Oldschool
Page Views: 5,603 total · 52/month
Shared By: Mike on Nov 29, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

Climbs obvious 'lightning bolt' offwidth in between the Winsloner & Valley Girl. Start in a nice handcrack that quickly gets wide. OW past a couple nice rests to the intermediate anchors on the right just after a short chimney section, which allow one to rap/TR with a single 70m rope. Or just continue to top & use 2 ropes. A nice line.

Location

Located downstream on the West Wall, just inside Shady Grove.

Protection

1 #2, 1 #3, 3-4 #4, & 2 #5 camalots. Add a few more cams and a #6 if you want to feel extra secure. Bolted rap anchor at 110', or continue to top.
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
 
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
 
i had 4 #5's and a #6, 2 #4's, a #3 and a #2. It was perfect, I used every piece. This climb is SO great!!!!!! Love it! Sep 6, 2011
Chris Meyer
N Lake Tahoe
Chris Meyer   N Lake Tahoe
Followed after Nestors Lead. scraped my anckels alot, did the upper crux offwidth with a lay back above the block. Cm Sep 20, 2011
J tot
Tempe, AZ
 
J tot   Tempe, AZ
 
I lead this with two 4's and a 5. It was pretty sketchy towards the top. I recommend at least two 5's and a 6. Jan 27, 2012
RyanJames  
 
Darkstar is definitely one of the most aesthetic climbs in the canyon, for sure! Jan 28, 2012
JMo
Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
JMo   Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
Stellar. To REALLY sew this up: 2, 3, 3x4, 3x5, 3x6. Jun 11, 2012
Tradiban
  5.10-
Tradiban  
  5.10-
I did this fairly safely with a rack of doubles up to C4 #5, a #1 down low then bigger stuff as you go higher. I leap frogged the 5s and slung a big chockstone near the top where a #6 would go.

A very blue collar route and harder than it looks. If you are into that sort of thing this is 4 stars. If not be prepared to suffer. Jun 25, 2012
Ethan Y
 
Ethan Y  
 
First route I jumped on at Winslow and so far my favorite! Did this last week with 1x2, 2x3's, 2x4's, 1x4.5. I was obviously run out at the end, but with several huge knee lock rests and other meat-squishing maneuvers, I felt secure moving to the chains. The rock quality in the last ten feet or so deteriorates a bit and there is a copious amount of loose clastic/organic material inside the crack. makes for an awesome adventure as the climber, but be mindful of your belayer. Sep 21, 2015

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