Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Jim Haisley and Scott Baxter, circa 1984
Page Views: 6,421 total · 47/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Sep 12, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Description

This is a long pitch with lots of hands, the pro is varied since the crack constricts often. The rock quality is good as Red Rocks, nearing Wingate. I think the belayer should be at the highest ledge to reduce rope drag but with runners and a runout, could be belayed from the ground.

Location

As you rap into WW, this is the long corner just upstream on the west wall.

Protection

nuts, small to large cams
Mike
Phoenix
 
Mike   Phoenix
 
Nice route, long & fun. We broke it up into 2 pitches and it worked well. Jul 8, 2009
tcskis  
1st Ascent- Jim Haisley and Scott Baxter, 1984-ish. This and the Hanging Judge were the first 2 routes climbed at the Winslow Wall and they were put up simultaneously. Oct 29, 2009
Steve Pulver
Williston, ND
Steve Pulver   Williston, ND
We got to the chains at the base of Kingsnake and Hanging Judge by going up the far right corner, then traversing back left. From those chains it took a full 70m rope to do the route and lower back down. I had 3 sets of camalots from .5 to 3 and still ran out of gear. We first attempted in the evening, and I ended up lowering down from about 2/3's of the way up when I heard what sounded like many bats from inside the crack. I came back the next morning and was barely able to hear their squeaks, so I wasn't too scared to shove my hands in the crack. Sep 8, 2011
Chris Meyer
N Lake Tahoe
Chris Meyer   N Lake Tahoe
Lead first to 80' . Anchor with large cams 4s .
Nestor finished. terrific sandstone but moves felt like Bonnies Roof in Gunks. CM Sep 20, 2011
Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
Sucks up a ton of gear but doubles to C4 #3 will do fine. I would give it four stars but rock quality deteriorates towards the top. Jun 25, 2012
John Rivers
Flagstaff
  5.9+
John Rivers   Flagstaff
  5.9+
This route can be done with a 60m. The ends of the rope are 4 feet above the chains but with a little rope stretch will get you right to them. Also doubles .5-3 is just the right amount of gear, as long as you don't place it all down low, save some big pieces for the top. On top of that there is a bat cave inside of Hanging Judge, we literally watched 1000's of bats pour out of that tiny crack as we were hiking out. Aug 25, 2014
Joshua Munoz
Honolulu, HI
  5.9+
Joshua Munoz   Honolulu, HI
  5.9+
Are the correct chains high and to the left? If they are the correct ones make sure and bring some long runners for the rope drag. If not you're gonna have to traverse back and remove any pieces placed high. May 21, 2016
Alex "Tojo" Kray
Chandler, AZ
  5.9
Alex "Tojo" Kray   Chandler, AZ
  5.9
Starting from the bottom (below the ledge with the chains(the most horrible gear-camo job ive ever seen!)) to the chains at the top, my 80m was almost exactly at the middle mark! AWESOME tall pitch! Jun 20, 2016