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Routes in West Side

Anti-Venom T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Baby Seal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Barracuda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beach Blanket Bingo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beer Snake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Douglas, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Juju T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BlackzillaH S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bocephus T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bro Job S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bronzing S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Brotherhood, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Caligula S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Crack and Shatter S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Darkstar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Die-Agonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dopeman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ebonics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
French Kissing The Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Grey Matter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanging Judge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Has Bro S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
He Bro S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hot Chocolate T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Kingsnake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Boys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lemongello T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Om Sweet Om S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orangello S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Picture Me Rollin' S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Real Big Kung Fu S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sandstoner, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Saturday the 14th T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sh'ash Nizhitl (The Bear that is Brown) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
She Bro S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slap My Fro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slim Shady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stick It T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Valley Girl S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vanilla Voodoo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Winsloner, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Jim Haisley and Scott Baxter, circa 1984
Page Views: 5,990 total, 48/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Sep 12, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


64 Opinions

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Description

This is a long pitch with lots of hands, the pro is varied since the crack constricts often. The rock quality is good as Red Rocks, nearing Wingate. I think the belayer should be at the highest ledge to reduce rope drag but with runners and a runout, could be belayed from the ground.

Location

As you rap into WW, this is the long corner just upstream on the west wall.

Protection

nuts, small to large cams
Alex "Tojo" Kray
Chandler, AZ
  5.9
Alex "Tojo" Kray   Chandler, AZ
  5.9
Starting from the bottom (below the ledge with the chains(the most horrible gear-camo job ive ever seen!)) to the chains at the top, my 80m was almost exactly at the middle mark! AWESOME tall pitch! Jun 20, 2016
Joshua Munoz
  5.9+
Joshua Munoz  
  5.9+
Are the correct chains high and to the left? If they are the correct ones make sure and bring some long runners for the rope drag. If not you're gonna have to traverse back and remove any pieces placed high. May 21, 2016
John Rivers
Flagstaff
  5.9+
John Rivers   Flagstaff
  5.9+
This route can be done with a 60m. The ends of the rope are 4 feet above the chains but with a little rope stretch will get you right to them. Also doubles .5-3 is just the right amount of gear, as long as you don't place it all down low, save some big pieces for the top. On top of that there is a bat cave inside of Hanging Judge, we literally watched 1000's of bats pour out of that tiny crack as we were hiking out. Aug 25, 2014
Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
Sucks up a ton of gear but doubles to C4 #3 will do fine. I would give it four stars but rock quality deteriorates towards the top. Jun 25, 2012
Sun2Stone Meyer
Phoenix,AZ
Sun2Stone Meyer   Phoenix,AZ
Lead first to 80' . Anchor with large cams 4s .
Nestor finished. terrific sandstone but moves felt like Bonnies Roof in Gunks. CM Sep 20, 2011
Steve Pulver
Williston, ND
Steve Pulver   Williston, ND
We got to the chains at the base of Kingsnake and Hanging Judge by going up the far right corner, then traversing back left. From those chains it took a full 70m rope to do the route and lower back down. I had 3 sets of camalots from .5 to 3 and still ran out of gear. We first attempted in the evening, and I ended up lowering down from about 2/3's of the way up when I heard what sounded like many bats from inside the crack. I came back the next morning and was barely able to hear their squeaks, so I wasn't too scared to shove my hands in the crack. Sep 8, 2011
tcskis  
1st Ascent- Jim Haisley and Scott Baxter, 1984-ish. This and the Hanging Judge were the first 2 routes climbed at the Winslow Wall and they were put up simultaneously. Oct 29, 2009
Mike
Phoenix
 
Mike   Phoenix
 
Nice route, long & fun. We broke it up into 2 pitches and it worked well. Jul 8, 2009