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> Northern Arizona
> Winslow/ Hwy’s…
> East Clear Creek
> Winslow Wall
> West Side
The Hanging Judge
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 28
votes
Routes in West Side
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Anti-Venom T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Baby Seal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Barracuda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Beach Blanket Bingo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beer Snake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Douglas, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Black Juju T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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BlackzillaH S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Bocephus T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bro Job S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bronzing S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Brotherhood, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Caligula S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Can I Borrow Some Draws? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crack and Shatter S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Credit Card S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Darkstar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Die-Agonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Dopeman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ebonics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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French Kissing The Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Frequency S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c |
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Grey Matter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hanging Judge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Has Bro S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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He Bro S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Hot Chocolate T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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I Feel So Funky S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Kingsnake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lady Boys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lemongello T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Om Sweet Om S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Orangello S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Perfection Project S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Picture Me Rollin' S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Pirates of the Carabiner S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Real Big Kung Fu S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Sandstoner, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Saturday the 14th T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sh'ash Nizhitl (The Bear that is Brown) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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She Bro S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Slap My Fro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Slim Shady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stick It T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Throw Down the Gauntlet S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Valley Girl S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Vanilla Voodoo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Winsloner, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft |
| FA: | Tim Coats and Tim Toula (circa 1984), FFA John Steiger and Ray Ringle |
| Page Views: | 7,894 total · 73/month |
| Shared By: | Luis Cisneros on Jun 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
Your Star Rating:
Description
This is an absolutely fantastic line consisting of sustained finger locking, lay-backing and precise foot work along a slightly overhanging wall, and a few rest points.
The route starts on a ledge about 40 feet from the river. Getting there is kind of a sketchy 5.9. It is recommended to do this as an 'approach' short pitch. From there, is 100 more feet to the bolted anchors.
The route starts on a ledge about 40 feet from the river. Getting there is kind of a sketchy 5.9. It is recommended to do this as an 'approach' short pitch. From there, is 100 more feet to the bolted anchors.
Phoenix
At the white ledge up high, the route traverses right a few moves, then goes up a crack system (5.10) to the anchors. The direct finish (straight up from the white ledge) is a variation that goes at 5.11a/b-ish to another anchor. Jul 8, 2009
I don't recall RR ever climbing up here (but that doesn't mean he didn't.) Sep 7, 2009
Tucson
It could have been Larry, but I think it was Tim. Oct 29, 2009
Tucson
I had seen the second pitch and I have to admit that it gives me the willies...
I did try the line that splits to the right after the first crux, a broken crack that supposedly goes at mid .12, and which I thought was the first pitch for the upper corner... it was hard to climb, very dirty and will be tricky to protect (I was only trying the moves on TR from the Judge anchor).
Does anybody know anything about this variation? Jan 15, 2010
Chino Valley, AZ
Tucson, AZ
For the rack, I would recommend small to medium nuts, a few micro-cams to purple Metolius, triples of fingers, four .5s, and a few .75-1s. May 29, 2012
The road
This climb is probably easier for those of us with a long reach. Lots of good jams and locks to make big moves between. I onsighted up to the white ledge and I blame it on my long arms. The direct finish was still no gimme after all that pump and added some unnecessary heartbreak. That said I think it would be hard to clean the gear while lowering off the original anchor out right if your second wasn't going to follow you.
There was a bail anchor halfway up that consisted of two nuts with biners. I don't know the local ethic so I left it but the fixed gear is unnecessary and makes the route less exciting.
Lots of animal droppings all over the route, maybe it cleans up later in the season? Apr 13, 2017