Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Tim Coats and Tim Toula (circa 1984), FFA John Steiger and Ray Ringle
Page Views: 8,254 total · 71/month
Shared By: Luis Cisneros on Jun 9, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

This is an absolutely fantastic line consisting of sustained finger locking, lay-backing and precise foot work along a slightly overhanging wall, and a few rest points.

The route starts on a ledge about 40 feet from the river. Getting there is kind of a sketchy 5.9. It is recommended to do this as an 'approach' short pitch. From there, is 100 more feet to the bolted anchors.

Location

Directly across the river from the bottom of the rap line into the canyon.

Protection

A good assortment of finger size cams (BD's from .3 to .75)... I recommend AT LEAST triples of each plus a few small microcams and nuts.

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Photo Photo (copy)
Photos

Hanging Judge.<br> <br> Photo by Hailey Hagerty.
Hanging Judge. Photo by Hailey Hagerty.
 39
Jerimiah Gentry on The Judge (Photo by: Helen Padilla)<br> From http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/Jerimiah_Gentry_getting_hung_39664.html
Jerimiah Gentry on The Judge (Photo by: Helen P…
 26
Looking at the route from up on the rim.
Looking at the route from up on the rim.
 0
Tough off fingers section and finger popping crux made it too hard for me. Mike worked his way up with some good jams.
Tough off fingers section and finger popping cr…
 0
Patrick nearing the anchors.
Patrick nearing the anchors.
 0
The Judge
The Judge
 0

9 Comments

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Mike
Phoenix
  5.12-
Mike   Phoenix
  5.12-
What an outstanding pitch! Bring lots of thin pro up to.75 camalot, including thin nuts for the start.

At the white ledge up high, the route traverses right a few moves, then goes up a crack system (5.10) to the anchors. The direct finish (straight up from the white ledge) is a variation that goes at 5.11a/b-ish to another anchor. Jul 8, 2009
Paul Davidson
Paul Davidson  
I thought the FA of the Hanging Judge was Tim Coats. ~ '84 (w/ Scott?)
I don't recall RR ever climbing up here (but that doesn't mean he didn't.) Sep 7, 2009
Luis Cisneros
Tucson
  5.12-
Luis Cisneros   Tucson
  5.12-
Ok, that is why I put ??? signs on it... I only heard sometime ago that RR did it but never found any confirmation... so I am changing it right now.. Thanks Paul! Oct 28, 2009
Paul Davidson
Paul Davidson  
Well Luis, I wouldn't take my memory as gospel.
It could have been Larry, but I think it was Tim. Oct 29, 2009
tcskis
tcskis  
Actually, it went like this: I climbed with a couple falls to where I believe the bolted anchor is now. Then Tim T. tried to lead the off width straight above. He didn't have enough wide gear so we traversed to the right and climbed some other wide cracks to the rim. Later, John flashed the first pitch and Ray lead the direct finish up the wide crack for the full meal deal. Very impressive performance from 2 amazing climbers. One more piece of trivia, this and King Snake were the first 2 routes climbed at the Winslow Wall. As soon as we got there, Jim and Scott jumped on King Snake and Tim and I on Hanging Judge. Any one climb the 2nd pitch anymore? Oct 30, 2009
Luis Cisneros
Tucson
  5.12-
Luis Cisneros   Tucson
  5.12-
well, well, good! I wondered about the FA for a long time.
I had seen the second pitch and I have to admit that it gives me the willies...
I did try the line that splits to the right after the first crux, a broken crack that supposedly goes at mid .12, and which I thought was the first pitch for the upper corner... it was hard to climb, very dirty and will be tricky to protect (I was only trying the moves on TR from the Judge anchor).
Does anybody know anything about this variation? Jan 15, 2010
CJD
Chino Valley, AZ
CJD   Chino Valley, AZ
Those were not the first routes done at the Winslow wall. I did some FA's there in about 82 or 83 with two locals who's names I can't remember and Ken Collier who still lives in Flag. I think the local guys (Ken would remember their names) had done a few routes before I got there. I believe I took Toula there one more time and then never went back because I couldn't get any of the Flagstaff sheeple climbers to go out there. After I moved to boulder in 84 I heard about the "discovery" of the Winslow wall by Tim C. etc. Oct 31, 2011
Jeff Gicklhorn
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Jeff Gicklhorn   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Absolutely stellar pitch! Can easily lower back to the ledge with a 60m rope, or to the ground with a 70m.

For the rack, I would recommend small to medium nuts, a few micro-cams to purple Metolius, triples of fingers, four .5s, and a few .75-1s. May 29, 2012
Alexander K
The road
 
Alexander K   The road
 
A few thoughts:

This climb is probably easier for those of us with a long reach. Lots of good jams and locks to make big moves between. I onsighted up to the white ledge and I blame it on my long arms. The direct finish was still no gimme after all that pump and added some unnecessary heartbreak. That said I think it would be hard to clean the gear while lowering off the original anchor out right if your second wasn't going to follow you.

There was a bail anchor halfway up that consisted of two nuts with biners. I don't know the local ethic so I left it but the fixed gear is unnecessary and makes the route less exciting.

Lots of animal droppings all over the route, maybe it cleans up later in the season? Apr 13, 2017