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The Hanging Judge
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Type: | Trad, 130 ft |
FA: | Tim Coats and Tim Toula (circa 1984), FFA John Steiger and Ray Ringle |
Page Views: | 7,894 total · 73/month |
Shared By: | Luis Cisneros on Jun 9, 2009 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
Description
This is an absolutely fantastic line consisting of sustained finger locking, lay-backing and precise foot work along a slightly overhanging wall, and a few rest points.
The route starts on a ledge about 40 feet from the river. Getting there is kind of a sketchy 5.9. It is recommended to do this as an 'approach' short pitch. From there, is 100 more feet to the bolted anchors.
The route starts on a ledge about 40 feet from the river. Getting there is kind of a sketchy 5.9. It is recommended to do this as an 'approach' short pitch. From there, is 100 more feet to the bolted anchors.
Phoenix
At the white ledge up high, the route traverses right a few moves, then goes up a crack system (5.10) to the anchors. The direct finish (straight up from the white ledge) is a variation that goes at 5.11a/b-ish to another anchor. Jul 8, 2009
I don't recall RR ever climbing up here (but that doesn't mean he didn't.) Sep 7, 2009
Tucson
It could have been Larry, but I think it was Tim. Oct 29, 2009
Tucson
I had seen the second pitch and I have to admit that it gives me the willies...
I did try the line that splits to the right after the first crux, a broken crack that supposedly goes at mid .12, and which I thought was the first pitch for the upper corner... it was hard to climb, very dirty and will be tricky to protect (I was only trying the moves on TR from the Judge anchor).
Does anybody know anything about this variation? Jan 15, 2010
Chino Valley, AZ
Tucson, AZ
For the rack, I would recommend small to medium nuts, a few micro-cams to purple Metolius, triples of fingers, four .5s, and a few .75-1s. May 29, 2012
The road
This climb is probably easier for those of us with a long reach. Lots of good jams and locks to make big moves between. I onsighted up to the white ledge and I blame it on my long arms. The direct finish was still no gimme after all that pump and added some unnecessary heartbreak. That said I think it would be hard to clean the gear while lowering off the original anchor out right if your second wasn't going to follow you.
There was a bail anchor halfway up that consisted of two nuts with biners. I don't know the local ethic so I left it but the fixed gear is unnecessary and makes the route less exciting.
Lots of animal droppings all over the route, maybe it cleans up later in the season? Apr 13, 2017