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Routes in West Side

Anti-Venom T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Baby Seal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Barracuda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beach Blanket Bingo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beer Snake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Douglas, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Juju T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BlackzillaH S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bocephus T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bro Job S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bronzing S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Brotherhood, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Caligula S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Crack and Shatter S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Darkstar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Die-Agonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dopeman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ebonics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
French Kissing The Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Grey Matter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanging Judge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Has Bro S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
He Bro S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hot Chocolate T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Kingsnake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Boys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lemongello T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Om Sweet Om S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orangello S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Picture Me Rollin' S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Real Big Kung Fu S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sandstoner, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Saturday the 14th T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sh'ash Nizhitl (The Bear that is Brown) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
She Bro S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slap My Fro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slim Shady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stick It T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Valley Girl S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vanilla Voodoo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Winsloner, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Tim Coats and Tim Toula (circa 1984), FFA John Steiger and Ray Ringle
Page Views: 7,651 total, 74/month
Shared By: Luis Cisneros on Jun 9, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

This is an absolutely fantastic line consisting of sustained finger locking, lay-backing and precise foot work along a slightly overhanging wall, and a few rest points.

The route starts on a ledge about 40 feet from the river. Getting there is kind of a sketchy 5.9. It is recommended to do this as an 'approach' short pitch. From there, is 100 more feet to the bolted anchors.

Location

Directly across the river from the bottom of the rap line into the canyon.

Protection

A good assortment of finger size cams (BD's from .3 to .75)... I recommend AT LEAST triples of each plus a few small microcams and nuts.
Alexander K
The road
 
Alexander K   The road
 
A few thoughts:

This climb is probably easier for those of us with a long reach. Lots of good jams and locks to make big moves between. I onsighted up to the white ledge and I blame it on my long arms. The direct finish was still no gimme after all that pump and added some unnecessary heartbreak. That said I think it would be hard to clean the gear while lowering off the original anchor out right if your second wasn't going to follow you.

There was a bail anchor halfway up that consisted of two nuts with biners. I don't know the local ethic so I left it but the fixed gear is unnecessary and makes the route less exciting.

Lots of animal droppings all over the route, maybe it cleans up later in the season? Apr 13, 2017
Jeff Gicklhorn
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Jeff Gicklhorn   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Absolutely stellar pitch! Can easily lower back to the ledge with a 60m rope, or to the ground with a 70m.

For the rack, I would recommend small to medium nuts, a few micro-cams to purple Metolius, triples of fingers, four .5s, and a few .75-1s. May 29, 2012
CJD
Chino Valley, AZ
CJD   Chino Valley, AZ
Those were not the first routes done at the Winslow wall. I did some FA's there in about 82 or 83 with two locals who's names I can't remember and Ken Collier who still lives in Flag. I think the local guys (Ken would remember their names) had done a few routes before I got there. I believe I took Toula there one more time and then never went back because I couldn't get any of the Flagstaff sheeple climbers to go out there. After I moved to boulder in 84 I heard about the "discovery" of the Winslow wall by Tim C. etc. Oct 31, 2011
Luis Cisneros
Tucson
 
Luis Cisneros   Tucson
 
well, well, good! I wondered about the FA for a long time.
I had seen the second pitch and I have to admit that it gives me the willies...
I did try the line that splits to the right after the first crux, a broken crack that supposedly goes at mid .12, and which I thought was the first pitch for the upper corner... it was hard to climb, very dirty and will be tricky to protect (I was only trying the moves on TR from the Judge anchor).
Does anybody know anything about this variation? Jan 15, 2010
tcskis  
Actually, it went like this: I climbed with a couple falls to where I believe the bolted anchor is now. Then Tim T. tried to lead the off width straight above. He didn't have enough wide gear so we traversed to the right and climbed some other wide cracks to the rim. Later, John flashed the first pitch and Ray lead the direct finish up the wide crack for the full meal deal. Very impressive performance from 2 amazing climbers. One more piece of trivia, this and King Snake were the first 2 routes climbed at the Winslow Wall. As soon as we got there, Jim and Scott jumped on King Snake and Tim and I on Hanging Judge. Any one climb the 2nd pitch anymore? Oct 30, 2009
Well Luis, I wouldn't take my memory as gospel.
It could have been Larry, but I think it was Tim. Oct 29, 2009
Luis Cisneros
Tucson
 
Luis Cisneros   Tucson
 
Ok, that is why I put ??? signs on it... I only heard sometime ago that RR did it but never found any confirmation... so I am changing it right now.. Thanks Paul! Oct 28, 2009
I thought the FA of the Hanging Judge was Tim Coats. ~ '84 (w/ Scott?)
I don't recall RR ever climbing up here (but that doesn't mean he didn't.) Sep 7, 2009
Mike
Phoenix
  5.12-
Mike   Phoenix
  5.12-
What an outstanding pitch! Bring lots of thin pro up to.75 camalot, including thin nuts for the start.

At the white ledge up high, the route traverses right a few moves, then goes up a crack system (5.10) to the anchors. The direct finish (straight up from the white ledge) is a variation that goes at 5.11a/b-ish to another anchor. Jul 8, 2009