Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: D. Bloom
Page Views: 6,160 total · 48/month
Shared By: Mike on Jun 18, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


60 Opinions

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Description

A great climb up great rock. Start right of the arete, just left of Hot Chocolate. Climb up and left to arete, then up past many bolts to top. Technically the crux is up high, but there are several cruxy sections throughout the climb. This one is full-value!

Location

Located downstream on the West Wall, on the prominant arete in the middle of Shady Grove. Just left of Hot Chocolate and 3 climbs to the right of Darkstar.

Protection

Lots of bolts, chains.
This might be my favorite sport route of all time. Really thin and tenuous at the crux. Aug 10, 2008
RyanJames
  5.12b
RyanJames  
  5.12b
A very aesthetic line! A must do! Sep 27, 2010
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
  5.12-
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
  5.12-
I was lucky enough to flash this line. Such a good route!

Here is some footage of this area. And the line. Enjoy!


vimeo.com/26097199 Apr 24, 2012
Peter Yakovchuk
Tempe, AZ
  5.12b
Peter Yakovchuk   Tempe, AZ
  5.12b
One of the best routes I have ever climbed. Probably 12b Aug 12, 2013
jaspur Chafer
tucson,az
  5.12b
jaspur Chafer   tucson,az
  5.12b
This route was in climbing magazines top 100 sport routes in the us. Did not disappoint can't wait to get back. One of the best routes I've had the pleasure to get on. Five stars! Jun 6, 2016
Jeff G.
Lyons
  5.12b
Jeff G.   Lyons
  5.12b
One of the best 12's I've ever done! Amazing setting with great and varied climbing.
A little spacing between some of the bolts but on relatively easy climbing. 11 bolts total with hard moves at bolts 3 and 4 and the crux series of moves coming at bolts 8 and 9. (4th bolt is a spinner)
95 ft. pitch. Oct 23, 2017