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Routes in West Side

Anti-Venom T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Baby Seal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Barracuda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beach Blanket Bingo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beer Snake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Douglas, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Juju T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BlackzillaH S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bocephus T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bro Job S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bronzing S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Brotherhood, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Caligula S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Crack and Shatter S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Darkstar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Die-Agonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dopeman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ebonics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
French Kissing The Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Grey Matter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanging Judge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Has Bro S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
He Bro S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hot Chocolate T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Kingsnake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Boys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lemongello T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Om Sweet Om S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orangello S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Picture Me Rollin' S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Real Big Kung Fu S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sandstoner, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Saturday the 14th T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sh'ash Nizhitl (The Bear that is Brown) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
She Bro S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slap My Fro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slim Shady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stick It T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Valley Girl S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vanilla Voodoo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Winsloner, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: D. Bloom
Page Views: 5,380 total, 47/month
Shared By: Mike on Jun 18, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Description

A great climb up great rock. Start right of the arete, just left of Hot Chocolate. Climb up and left to arete, then up past many bolts to top. Technically the crux is up high, but there are several cruxy sections throughout the climb. This one is full-value!

Location

Located downstream on the West Wall, on the prominant arete in the middle of Shady Grove. Just left of Hot Chocolate and 3 climbs to the right of Darkstar.

Protection

Lots of bolts, chains.
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.12b
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.12b
One of the best 12's I've ever done! Amazing setting with great and varied climbing.
A little spacing between some of the bolts but on relatively easy climbing. 11 bolts total with hard moves at bolts 3 and 4 and the crux series of moves coming at bolts 8 and 9. (4th bolt is a spinner)
95 ft. pitch. Oct 23, 2017
jaspur Chafer
tucson,az
  5.12b
jaspur Chafer   tucson,az
  5.12b
This route was in climbing magazines top 100 sport routes in the us. Did not disappoint can't wait to get back. One of the best routes I've had the pleasure to get on. Five stars! Jun 6, 2016
Peter Yakovchuk
Tempe, AZ
  5.12b
Peter Yakovchuk   Tempe, AZ
  5.12b
One of the best routes I have ever climbed. Probably 12b Aug 12, 2013
Pat Mac
Tempe
  5.12-
Pat Mac   Tempe
  5.12-
I was lucky enough to flash this line. Such a good route!

Here is some footage of this area. And the line. Enjoy!


vimeo.com/26097199 Apr 24, 2012
RyanJames
  5.12b
RyanJames  
  5.12b
A very aesthetic line! A must do! Sep 27, 2010
This might be my favorite sport route of all time. Really thin and tenuous at the crux. Aug 10, 2008